SEPTEMBER-OCTWWW.INDIAPER - PDF document

SEPTEMBER-OCTWWW.INDIAPER SEPTEMBER-OCT Enlivening a Indian cuisine is reasserting its purity on the global culinary map. We take a look at the story behind the concept called Modern Indian Cuisine t was in 1809 that Indian gastronomy arrived in the West with Chicken Tikka (roasted chicken chunks). Served at Hindostanee Coffee House, owned by the son of a former sepoy of the East India Company, Dean Mahomet, this mildly-spiced boneless chicken dish, by the turn of the year, was announced as a “culinary allowance” for members in the House of Commons. A century-and-a-half later, the world was introduced to Butter Chicken (cream-based Dal Makhani (creamy lentils dish). These three dishes became synonymous to Indian cuisine. Contrary to popular belief, none of these were consciously tailormade to appease Western palates. Like the fabled Biryanis (rice dish with spices and meat/vegetable) and Kebabs (roasted chunks of meat or vegetables) that introduced a new Indian culinary chapter, they were the result of legacy Dal Chawal Arinciniand chutneyPhotos courtesy: Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra CUISINE PERSPECTIVES SEPTEMBER-OCTWWW.INDIAPER SEPTEMBER-OCT Masala Scallops the want to create something new from the traditional. This process led to evolution of technique and ingredients. And, in turn, became a concept called Modern Indian Cuisine. Result: Every new culinary “generation” saw the emergence of a new way to prepare it. For instance, the Biryani. Developed by Mughal queen Mumtaz Mahal to feed armies and yet travel miles without losing flavour, it underwent seven iterations before the Mughal dynasty declined. The Hyderabadi Biryani introduced the popular concept of slow cooking techniqueIn modern times, newer means to achieve Nihari uses Sous Vide to achieve the succulence begot by cooking the meat overnight – individual shanks are marinated, vacuum packed and cooked in a water bath for lesser hours. Techniques like Molecular Gastronomy were Braised Muon Chaapmaple and kokum glazeDabba Gosht Indian cuisine continues to evolve. Galouti Kebab saw light of day courtesy royal patronage. It was created for the queen who wanted a soft and succulent delicacy. Then there were the Tunde Kebabs, named after the one-handed cooks who worked unending hours to pound the meat to perfection.Yet another innovation was the Rampuri , the result of a competition between the cooks of Nawabs of Awadh, Lucknow, Hyderabad and Rampur. The dish was made with almonds carved to resemble rice and pista (pistachio) along with lentils. World-famous rosogullas, known for their softness, had their genesis in the need to create something unique from excess. Legend has it that Pahado Rosogulla (named after a small village near Bhubaneswar in Odisha) variety evolved because of excess milk there. In fact, it is often said the chenna (caramelised ricotta cheese), India’s first cheesecake, was an attempt to create a large rosogulla that went wrong.A reflection of evolution SEPTEMBER-OCTWWW.INDIAPER SEPTEMBER-OCT (roasted goat ribs) is another interesting reinvention. The once rustic Afghan dish that had salt and chilli as marination has undergone numerous iterations, the most aamchur (blend of spices like cumin, black pepper, clove...). The Mutton Chaap with Maple Syrup and Kokum served at Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra comes closer to the first Mutton . It follows the tandoor roast technique to prepare, the glaze which seeps down to the bone giving the dish character. Mishti Doi Lollipop, made by instantly freezing dollops Mishti Doi (sweet jaggery yogurt) in an Anti Griddle, uses cold nitrogen gas to freeze and can sustain flavours despite temperature changes. Not all dishes have to resort to a change in technique to become part of the modern cuisine interpretation; some score Jalebi Caviar with saron glaze and pistachio rabdi sev puri Tandoori Pink Salmonthrough wholesomeness, others through presentation. Like the Moplah-style Ghee Rice and Chicken Curry, steamed and served in a green banana leaf or a piquant Meen Vevichathu (seer fish in a chilli-based gravy) scores on the former. The combination of dishes both fiery hot and genteel works at balancing flavours and creating the traditional identity without spice overuse. The Curry Leaf Pepper Prawns and (chilled tempered yogurt rice) seis yet another example of such flavour foreplay. The chilled curd rice balanceDal Chawal Arancini (panco coated, fried lentil-rice balls) works on presentation. This traditional Maharastrian staple is served like a meatball garnished with mini papads (thin sheets of black gram), chutneys and achaar (pickle) for a single-bite experience, much like the Dahi Bhalla (lentil doughnut with spiced yogurt) ice cream served at Ziya, incorporated to compensate for balancing flavours or for better presentation. Like in the case of Raita (spiced yogurt) spherification, popularised by Gaggan Restaurant in Bangkok where the spicy yogurt preparation is served on a chilled spoon in spherical shape using sodium alginate as setting agent. Encapsulated in bubbles, the flavours of yoghurt and Indian spices burst in the mouth, giving the same taste without overwhelming spices. Something similar was achieved with Jalebi where molecular technique is used to create (flour-based fried sweet) that resembles a bed of orange caviars. Served over chilled Rabdi (milk dessert), it replicates the traditional Jalebi-Rabdi taste. (grilled mutton basted with clarified butter) also changed the way food was flavoured. Introduced by the Bunts of Kundapur, a warrior community in South India, it became a prominent (clay oven) to give it a smoky flavour. It brings out the flavours in most items, including the pate-style Galawati (shallow fried tender meat/vegetable patties) that was reintroduced in the first menu of the Dum Pukht restaurant at ITC Maurya, New Delhi back Raan that came with a rum-marinade and cocktail onions in a Wellington-style puff pastry case. Reinvention, in fact, became a key factor in reasserting the purity of Indian cuisine on the global culinary map. For instance, the Atta Chicken (baked spicy chicken made inside a flour ball), a signature dish at Taj Mahal Palace & Towers’ Masala Kraft. This Khad-inspired dish (north Indian pottery community) follows the nomadic school of cooking where marinated chicken was cooked buried in sand for hours or from the heat of smoldering embers of the . At Masala Kraft, the dish is prepared inside earthen pots in an oven for 45 minutes and served with fresh (Indian bread). The Biryani, developed by Mumtaz Mahal, underwent seven iterations before the Mughal dynasty came to