Perry Romanowski Element 44 Inc Natural Formulating Involved in Natural Formulating Natural Formulating Course Blogging Audience Demand Lots of interest in Natural Formulating Learn how to create effective natural formula ID: 152394
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Slide1
A Cosmetic Chemists Guide to Natural Formulating Standards
Perry
Romanowski
Element 44 IncSlide2
Natural FormulatingSlide3
Involved in Natural Formulating
Natural Formulating Course
Blogging
Audience
DemandSlide4
Lots of interest in Natural FormulatingSlide5
Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online courseDefine NaturalExplore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products
http://
chemistscorner.com
/natural-cosmeticsSlide6
Scope
Natural Cosmetic Market
Natural Standards Groups
Standards
Should you get certified?Slide7
Natural Cosmetic Market
$30 billion globally 2013Slide8
Small Natural BrandsSlide9
Bought By Clorox
For >$900 million
Bought By Colgate
For $100 millionSlide10
GreenwashingSlide11
Modern Day Greenwashing
Active NaturalsOat, Soy, SeaweedOh yeah….
Dimethicone
Petrolatum
Isopropyl
PalmitateSlide12
Natural has no legal definitionSlide13
Chemical
Fear
Mongers
MediaSlide14Slide15Slide16
Natural Standards GroupsSlide17
Major US Natural Standards Groups
USDANational Sanitation FoundationNational Product AssociationOASISSlide18
Highest Standard - NPO
USDA regulates term “organic” as it relates to agricultural products through its NOP regulation, 7 CFR Part 205Label
cosmetics as organic
if they meet same criteria
governing organic food certification Slide19
USDA – NPO labeling categories
“100% Organic” – Contains only organically produced ingredients“Organic” – Contains 95% organic ingredients
“Made with organic…” – Contains 70%
organic ingredients
Can’t use the sealSlide20
Labeling Confusion
INCI labeling rules
USDA labeling rules
Most people follow USDA rulesSlide21
NSF / ANSI Organic Standards
Not as strict as USDA standards“Contains Organic Ingredients”70% or more organic – O70State exact percentage of organic content
Harmonized with
NaTrue
in EUSlide22
Natural Product Association Standards
“Protect & equip consumers to maximize their well being”Standards cover all FDA defined cosmetics
For products labeled “Natural”
Based on
Natural ingredients
Safety
Responsibility
SustainabilitySlide23
International Natural StandardsSlide24
COSMOS Standards
Promote organic agricultureUse natural resourcesClean processing and manufacture“Precautionary Principle”Integrate Green Chemistry principlesSlide25
Principles of Green ChemistrySlide26
Whole Foods Standard
Premium Body Care StandardsFour key areasResultsSource
Environmental Impact
Safety
List of 400+ ingredients not allowedSlide27
Details of the Natural StandardsSlide28
Definition of Natural
Not Synthetically Derived or Synthetically processedIf it’s not from a plant, it’s not natural
USDA definition
Other standards are not as strictSlide29
Common Standards
Water is natural
Mineral ingredients are natural
Physically processed agro-materials are natural
Some chemical processing of agro materials
Some synthetics allowedSlide30
Some Prohibited Ingredients
Parabens
Formaldehyde Donors
Petrolatum & petroleum derived
Propylene glycols
Sodium
Lauryl
Sulfate
Ethanolamines
Synthetic Silicones
Synthetic Fragrances
Synthetic Polymers
EDTASlide31
Differences in Standards
Positive List – NPA, COSMOSNegative List – Whole Foods, NPANanoparticles – prohibited by COSMOS, Whole Foods. NPA? NSF?
GMO – Prohibited by COSMOS
Not by NPA
Animal Testing – Prohibited by COSMOSSlide32
Some Chemistry Allowed
DistillationEsterification & EtherificationExpression
Extraction
Fat Splitting
Fermentation
Hydrogenation
Protein Hydrolysis
Saponification
Sulfation
– (no SLS)Slide33
How to get certified
Learn the specifics of the certificationCreate your formulasPay money to the certifying groupOnce you’re approved, you can use the label
Continually get certifiedSlide34
Should you get Certified?Slide35
Should you get Certified? - Yes
It appeals to consumersStand apart from competitionGet clear formulation guidanceIt may eventually be requiredSlide36
Should you get Certified? - No
Consumers don’t know standardsIt costs moneyIt restricts formulating / innovationYou give up controlSlide37
Should you get Certified?Slide38
Learn how to create effective natural formula
Online courseDefine NaturalExplore functional natural ingredients
Specific natural skin & hair formulations
How to market natural products
Started 2/17/15
http://
chemistscorner.com
/natural-cosmetics