On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion  Geometric breaking criterion f    Time s     br br br br Figure   KI ZI  Dynamic breaking

On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion Geometric breaking criterion f Time s br br br br Figure KI ZI Dynamic breaking - Description

2 04 06 Nm Time UTC 123 4 m 123 4 Figure 2 Breaking scale 05 01 02 brk c 1 05 01 02 03 brk c 2 05 01 02 03 brk c 3 05 01 02 03 brk c 4 Figure 3 brPage 6br EZ EZ v 05 10 87226 10 87225 10 87224 10 87223 cc c m 87222 s Figure 4 Total breaking rate ZZ b ID: 26160 Download Pdf

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On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion Geometric breaking criterion f Time s br br br br Figure KI ZI Dynamic breaking

2 04 06 Nm Time UTC 123 4 m 123 4 Figure 2 Breaking scale 05 01 02 brk c 1 05 01 02 03 brk c 2 05 01 02 03 brk c 3 05 01 02 03 brk c 4 Figure 3 brPage 6br EZ EZ v 05 10 87226 10 87225 10 87224 10 87223 cc c m 87222 s Figure 4 Total breaking rate ZZ b

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On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion Geometric breaking criterion f Time s br br br br Figure KI ZI Dynamic breaking




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Presentation on theme: "On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion Geometric breaking criterion f Time s br br br br Figure KI ZI Dynamic breaking"— Presentation transcript:


Page 1
On the occurrence of wave breaking Abstract Introduction Wave breaking criteria Kinematic breaking criterion
Page 2
Geometric breaking criterion f 10 −2 −1 Time [s] 10 −3 −2 −1 br br br br Figure 1
Page 3
KI ZI \[ Dynamic breaking criterion Indirect breaking criteria Wave breaking probability
Page 4
' ' VZZZ ZZ ZZZ Multiscale breaking rate / HU / / / Observations
Page 5
Occurrence and scale of wave breaking 01/10 08/10 0.2 0.4 0.6 [N/m Time [UTC] 123 4 [m] 123 4 Figure 2. Breaking

scale 0.5 0.1 0.2 brk /c 1 0.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 brk /c 2 0.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 brk /c 3 0.5 0.1 0.2 0.3 brk /c 4 Figure 3.
Page 6
EZ EZ /v 0.5 10 −6 10 −5 10 −4 10 −3 c/c (c) [m −2 s] Figure 4 Total breaking rate ZZ
Page 7
0.1 0.15 0.2 0.25 0.3 0.35 0. 20 40 60 80 100 120 R [h −1 0.005 0.01 0.015 0.0 20 40 60 80 100 120 P(ak > /7) R [h −1 Figure 5 Conclusions
Page 8
Acknowledgments References