MARCH 2013BAROETER OF CHANGE - PDF document

MARCH 2013BAROETER OF CHANGE marCH 2013 3most admired wine Brands How we did itthe methodology behind the research explainedop 50 Listingthe de�nitive guide to the world’s 50 ost dmired wine Brandstop wines by region: north Bordeaux & europe, and ustralia & new Zealandwardsthe results of drinks international’s second annual wine tourism wards M anaging Editor Production Editor anager roger.betriu@drinksint.comcarmen.poel@drinksint.com russell.dodd@drinksint.com 25-3033-34 The time elcome to this year’s Admired Wine BrandsIt’s an interesting time to be involved in wine. There’s something time in its history, and upwardly mobile consumers in markets like So brand owners are redrawing their maps and setting their sights on markets that were previously off their radars. As we’ve seen with China, the brands that have done most to open doors are prestige marques such as Late, or international brands like Jacob’s Creek, which have than ever. Our survey is the perfect indicator of which brands lead marCH 2013 most admired wine Brands M marCH 2013most admired wine Brands s always, our judges cast their votes in a secret ballot and we allowed them to remain anonymous if they chose. those who gave permission for their names to be published are listed below. s always, judges were not allowed to vote for brands with which they have a professional association.árka uskovázech epublic), educator and researcherGodfrey pence (UK), educator (UK), group wine director at tescou Birchfrica), chief executive of wines of south Cees van Casteren (netherlands), educator, consultant and writerorrents (spain), director of buying at enotriaChristian frica), sales and marketing manager at aats Family winesGavin Quinney (UK), owner, hâteau BauducJoão Victorino (Portugal), educatorichael Cox (UK), europe director at wines of etcalfe (UK), educator, consultant and writertephen (Us), executive director and analyst at oyle (UK), commercial director at oncha y toro UKXavier ousset (France), sommelier and restaurateurPer Karlsson (sweden), educator and writerteffen (Germany), marketing director at the German wine institutefrica), group sommelier at tsogo sunPeter cudamore-ustralia), tour organiser and bloggereil Barker (UK), former UK & ireland commercial director of Foster’s Grouparby (UK), educator, writer and tour organiserichard Bamp�eld (UK), educator and consultantustralia), wine producereriluoto (Finland), importer, educator and bloggerrtega Fournier (spain), director, o Fournierahoney (UK), writerPeter cCombie (new Zealand), consultant and writer ow in its third year, the Drinks International Admired Wine Brands Winning the admiration of your litre tanks at your winery, shifting 10 million cases a year, or buying the ways, it’s an intangible thing. We can’t Masters of Wine, consultants, To help them on their way, we a model of consistency, and have Barometer of changeM marCH 2013most admired wine Brands succession, Concha y Toro Wine Brands poll. It’s a Chile’s most famous export.Toro name. Preliminary gures from half of all exports by Concha y Toro.year. It’s now a 1m-case wine in the UK’s Toro, involving brand-building work in For Concha y Toro as a whole, the 21%. China, unsurprisingly, is leading the way, with volumes up by 56%. It’s followed by Japan (+20%), Korea Almost two thirds of Concha y Toro by the Chilean head ofce. It’s a system prefer. In addition to its recent activity year.Concha y Toro’s more upmarket Global sales of the super-premium wine In this year’s Most Admired poll, we separated Cono Sur’s votes from those of Concha y Toro as a whole, time … yet still Concha y Toro amassed enough votes to top the table. It’s yet genuinely is the world’s most admired stimated GLoaL sHiPments:CoUntrY oF oriGin:Chile and argentinaConcha y toro marCH 2013most admired wine Brands e don’t pat ourselves little better every day.” That’s one of Torres. Brand owners of this scale are retain their dominance. Torres, on the such complacency.Torres wines can now be found in accounting for 72% of the company’s the company’s prots reinvested into Finland are Torres’ most important Bodegas Torres can trace its history In Spain, Bodegas Torres has a range Fransola, Milmanda, Manso de Velasco Margarita Vineyards (California), and by Mireia Torres-Maczassek, who Priorat winery. The company’s most mainstream brands, Viña Sol and Sangre de Toro, consistent quality. Other familiar stimated GLoaL sHiPments:CoUntrY oF oriGin:torres sa Atrium and Viña Esmerelda, while at the premium end Torres takes pride led by Miguel A Torres, a fourth-the modern Spanish wine industry. Torres and Marimar Torres, Torres is by Arnau Torres-Rosselló, Mireia Torres-Maczassek, Cristina Torres and Miguel Torres-Maczassek, who recently became the company’s general manager.Don’t expect the succession to lead to a change of direction, however. The demands innovation, trust, loyalty, Torres such an iconic name for decades. marCH 2013 most admired wine Brands M towards super-premium regarded as Australia’s icon Recently, however, the project has on its luxury credentials. Two launches perfectly.time, that’s roughly what you would the price tag of the ampoule, but that’s if it’s very good fermented grape It’s aligned itself with a luxury values that appeal to the world’s super-60A and the 2008 Bin 620 Coonawarra This shift in strategy has, in reality, But Treasury Wine Estates is pleased with the progress it’s making. In its It’s all a world away from the brand’s English doctor, Dr Christopher Rawson Treasury, Penfolds has not just has also set about correcting its over-Its Yattarna project, set in train Treasury’s agship wine, but the stimated GLoaL sHiPments:CoUntrY oF oriGin:australiatreasury wine estates marCH 2013yeasts in the winery, and an absence estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:150,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin: new Zealand LVmHIt’s now almost 30 years since David Zealand’s South Island. Its Sauvignon and created a fruity, pungent style Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot Noir, as well as the LVMH group since 2003 and is now estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:75,000 CoUntrY oF oriGin: otsuka Pharmaceutical CoRidge is the US’s most admired wine Valley in Sonoma County. Since 1969 estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin:new ZealandPernod ricardhas become New Zealand’s biggest-current owner, Pernod company’s New nancial year. most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 420,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin:Franceonce again hapoutier is the most admired French wine brand in the vote. the hône winemaker and négociant has been in the same family ownership since 1808, producing ermitage, ôte ôtie, hateauneuf du Pape, saint-Joseph, rozes ermitage and Luberon to international acclaim. it also operates in ustralia, though hints of an english operation have not come to fruition, at least not yet.the company’s own vineyards and the single vineyards it selects are cultivated either organically or biodynamically to respect the terroir. But hapoutier remains scathing about the ‘natural wine’ movement. “it’s rubbish,” he declares. “it’s like making vinegar, bad vinegar. ow can anyone allow toxic yeasts to develop so that these inhabit the wine? it is extraordinary that people defend products with defects on the grounds that in the past growers were making wines with defects, so that is good, or natural. those old wines had defects because people lacked the tools and means not to make fault-free wines.” hapoutier remains as passionate as ever about his winemaking philosophy and his legacy. “twenty years from now, i don’t see it being different from today. hapoutier will be making wine. there is one thing i want to defend: making rare, terroir wines. it’s a culture that must be defended.” M most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:500,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin: FranceGuigal familythe Rhône valley. Established in 1946 Around half of the company’s La Turque.Parker has certainly helped Guigal’s company’s success is its attention to in the vineyard and in the cellar.estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin:France de Villaine and roch familiessome people’s eyes, the world.DRC’s 25 grand cru vineyards Richebourg, Romanée-St-Vivant, around the village of Vosne-Romanée, Vines have an average age of around 45 years and are farmed organically. Winemaker Bernard Noblet, who complexity.estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:30,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin:FrancerothschildMouton was, infamously, as Bordeaux’s nest. and Petit Verdot also present. Today Mouton is owned by Baroness estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Franceduboeuf familyKnown as ‘the king of Beaujolais’ (or sometimes the pope), Georges duboeuf grew up on the family vineyard in âçon and by the age of 18 was delivering Beaujolais by bicycle to local restaurant clients. not long after that, duboeuf established a syndicate of 45 growers to fuel his growing enterprise. this in turn gave way to Les Vins Georges duboeuf, a négociant business started in 1964. inevitably, no discussion of duboeuf (the man and the business) is possible without reference to Beaujolais nouveau, a marketing stunt which arguably put the region on the map internationally and continues to capture the imagination of wine lovers in many countries. these days, nouveau is regarded as something of a poisoned chalice by those who feel such young wines have achieved success at the detriment of more complex and aged alternatives. duboeuf itself is putting more emphasis on its crus and a range of domaine wines, made from single estates. #4 marCH 2013 most admird winrands M marCH 2013most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:knownCoUntrY oF oriGin: Álvarez familyRibera del Duero’s recognition as a acclaimed producer, Vega Sicilia, can still so crucial to the winery to this day.Technical director Xavier Ausás, who began working as an oenologist at Vega some of Vega Sicilia’s success.with Tempranillo as well as Cabernet estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:knownCoUntrY oF oriGin: australia australian VintageTracing its roots to 1880, when Owen McGuigan settled in the Hunter Valley, industry. It’s also one of the most Hunter.expression of the variety. estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: australia treasury wine estatesWolf Blass recently reported a sales in the near future. Indeed, Treasury Wine Estates compares economic and More than 70% of Wolf Blass wine 1969, when Wolfgang Blass bought a Black Label four years later, and winning the Jimmy Watson Trophy at the Melbourne Wine Show in 1974. by parent company Concha y Toro.value wines of consistent quality, but estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Félix solís saFélix Solís’s Viña Albali brand – named winemaking – settled in Valdepeñas. He Today the estate is known as Viña outside Spain under the DO Valdepeñas addition to Viña Albali, the portfolio estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: australia Casella familyYellowtail is such an epoch-making wine brand that it’s sometimes easy New South Wales. The company now estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 45,000 CoUntrY oF oriGin: France rothschildcountry, but also because Chinese 1855, Late’s Pauillac estate has been estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:30,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin:France Corinne mentzelopoulostaking its name from the commune of argaux, the estate has been associated with wine since the 16th century. it was reportedly the �rst claret to be sold at hristie’s (in 1771) and was one of four estates singled out for particular praise by thomas Jefferson when he visited Bordeaux in 1787. hâteau argaux 1787 holds the record as the most expensive bottle of wine ever broken, being insured for $225,000.round 150,000 bottles of the grand vin are produced each year, compared to 200,000 bottles of the second wine, Pavillon ouge. the white version of Pavillon, which sells around 35,000 bottles a year, must be labelled as generic Bordeaux as the argaux authorities do not recognise sauvignon Blanc.every day of the year.Yellowtail can now be found in that market’s history, and where it philosophy, producing easy-drinking estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Concha y toro estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Jackson Family wine estatesJess Jackson, who died aged 81 in 2011, would be proud to see that the business he created continues to be held in such high regard. Founded in 1974 on a former peach and walnut estate, the vineyard originally supplied grapes for other wineries before Jackson created his own brand in 1982. “we simply wanted to create extraordinary wine from alifornia’s best vineyards,” he explained.the sonoma-based business is associated with the full gamut of alifornian varieties, at a range of price recent addition is K-J vant, described as “a new benchmark of alifornia hardonnay”, and made with minimal oak contact.winemaker andy Ullom, who oversees the entire Kendall-Jackson portfolio, was appointed by Jess Jackson in 1992. “i look at all of the vineyards we own,” he says, “and all of the individual lots of wines that we make, and the thousands of barrels we have sitting in our cellar and sometimes i think, you gotta be fter i’ve suf�ciently recovered from my daily panic attack, i take off my coat, dig in my heels and take it one barrel at a time.” marCH 2013 most admird winrands M marCH 2013most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: France Bernard arnault and Baron Frèrearrived at the end of the 19th century, become legendary, regarded by some as estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: France Les Grands Chais de FrancePay’s Doc or simply Vin de France.estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: UstWashington State’s oldest winery Stimson. The winery’s roots date back Pommerelle Wine Company and the National Wine Company were created. All of Château Ste Michelle’s Mountains. Winemaker Bob Bertheau Woodinville, near Seattle, and the eastern Washington.adding: “We continued to grow our distribution globally, in addition to estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: australia Pernod ricardevents that led, ultimately, to one of the world’s most successful wine brands. Jacob’s Creek is one of a small number The range was extended last year with the launch of Cool Harvest, which has a lower alcohol content than regular wines; and also 1837 TheSolway, a premium blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot developed exclusively for year saw the brand’s advertising and estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Vinos de los Herederos del marqués de riscalarqués de iscal is one of the oldest wineries in La ioja, founded in elciego (Álava) in 1858 by Guillermo sixty per cent of its production – described by the company as “original, fresh, elegant and easy to drink wine” – is exported, to nearly 100 countries. lways keen to innovate, the business now operates from ity of wine, Frank Gehry’s acclaimed construction which opened in 2006.ioja, the company owns 500ha of vineyards, planted with tempranillo, Graciano, azuelo. it also has control of a further 985ha of vineyard.the company was the �rst to introduce Bordeaux winemaking techniques to the region and was also a pioneer of the modern winemaking scene in #24 relaunch its Delicato Family Vineyards to founder Gasparé Indelicato’s vision estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:knownCoUntrY oF oriGin: san Pedro GroupIt’s little over a decade since the family-owned vineyard harvested its rst grapes in the cool-climate Chilean valley from which Viña Leyda borrows its name. has thriving vineyards of Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, McLaren Vale in the future. Fittingly, as the pioneer of the appellation, Viña Leyda’s quality and diversity have made it the region’s most estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 1.7m CoUntrY oF oriGin: Pernod ricardArguably Rioja’s most recognised brand, Campo Viejo has long been ahead of the curve in the region’s winemakers’ businesses, Campo Viejo’s consumer-friendly wines with a true expression of the Tempranillo grape.estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: the indelicato familycelebrated producer, with exports to estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 3,000 CoUntrY oF oriGin: Francebut there’s considerably less doubt With production limited to 11ha of Bordeaux’s silly prices. of US$83,000 at a Christie’s Hong same year. estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 700,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin: France the Latour familythe Louis Latour name has global resonance in the modern wine world but you’d be hard-pushed to �nd another producer more steeped in tradition. the Burgundy producer is into its third century under family ownership and claims to have the world’s oldest functioning winery and the �rst ever to be built for the purpose. it uses a gravity-fed winemaking process of lifts and railways, resisting modern innovations such as pumps. Latour has the largest grand cru property in the ote d’or, part of an overall holding of 51ha dedicated to hardonnay and Pinot noir. marCH 2013estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Constellation BrandsNapa Valley’s rst major new-build more than 30 years earlier. California. A true pioneer, Mondavi to production and New/Old World The family’s $1.4 billion sale to estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: the antinori familyTuscany’s nest has built its on a modernity, desirability and accessibility, and focus and diversity. With six centuries and 26 generations Faustino’s mix of tradition and Tours of Spain.estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:500,000 casesCoUntrY oF oriGin: south africa niveus/HCiSouth Africa’s largest wine producer’s to the country’s own political tides that it’s sometimes been easy to overlook most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:not knownCoUntrY oF oriGin:Claro GroupLegend has it that the independence leader Bernardo o’patriots took residence in the santa ita cellars in the �ght against the spanish Under the ownership of the laro Group since 1980, the company has enjoyed a more peaceful existence, with the main battle fought on world wine markets, in 75 of which santa ita is now sold with regional of�ces representing the �rm in London, iami and shanghai. sub-brands such as 120, eserva, eal, triple eal, have made the santa merica’s most reliable and innovative winemakers.facility. the lid off the region’s winemaking world become known as Super-Tuscan, of which its Tignanello is still regarded as the ultimate example today. game at home, it’s continued to M marCH 2013most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Concha y toroSustainability, natural and buzzwords throughout the industry, but California’s Fetzer has been living the now. a global drinks major, having swapped Brown-Forman for a place in Chile’s biggest wine empire in 2011 for a far-premium position. We could yet see estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:knownCoUntrY oF oriGin: south africa Brand Phoenixby others in Australia, Italy, eastern of the lower-alcohol wine movement, estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: n/aCoUntrY oF oriGin:the scene 20 years ago, it’s been largely The Californian brand’s leading seen brand extensions from Italy, South Release and Winemaker’s Selection wines and, most recently, a plunge into Blossom Hill Vie. estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts: 2,000 CoUntrY oF oriGin: France the Vauthier familyproperty’s luscious fruit-driven wines estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:13,000 CoUntrY oF oriGin:Francedomaine Clarence dillonno leading Bordeaux producer resonates with mericans quite like aut-Brion. the main property was one of the four original �rst growth classi�cations in 1855, though it had already won a ringing endorsement from thomas Jefferson when he stayed there 68 years before. Francophile merican �nancier larence dillon went one better when he bought aut-Brion in 1935 and it remains in his family today, with his great grandson Prince obert of Luxembourg the current custodian. nother famous merican – in wine circles at any rate – obert Parker has more bottles of La ission-aut Brion in his private collection than any other wine. ission is one of �ve properties aut-Brion empire. the most recently acquired, hâteau terte daugay, was given the new name hateau Quintus in 2012. estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Gruppo Faustinoexplore lesser-known Spanish regions It’s already proved itself happy to region, blending Tempranillo and marCH 2013estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Portugal sograpeIt’s to the credit of the gradual in recent decades that it’s now almost Tempranillo and Shiraz varieties and estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: France the thienpont familyWith a measly 2.7ha under vine, and that stands near the Pomerol winery, neighbouring Vieux Château Certan. that he inherited gave way to a new, estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Forner familyestimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Germany reh Kendermannaway from Black Tower’s favour, the world’s biggest selling wine has moved from Black Tower is further proof that this is one German wine that won’t most admird winrands Rioja a slow revolution in the region’s in France in the 1930s after Franco’s victory in the Spanish Civil War, and a fresher, less oak-driven style. It’s one that is commonplace today, but being accounting for a 10th of all the region’s M marCH 2013most admird winrands estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: new Zealand delegat’s wine estatesDelegat’s was one of the rst to capture Osyter Bay, a brand whose image has gongs for its Hawke’s Bay wines, while moves into Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot The brand’s principal export markets estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: Grupos Viños del Paci�coMerlot, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Fast-forward over a century, and 2012 saw Undurraga named Winery of the Year by Wines of Chile, principally the country’s zz footprint through its estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin: e&J Galloanyone think that it’s here purely for its promotional skills, it’s worth nothing the blindly-judged What Wine What 50 Changyuestimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:tonnesCoUntrY oF oriGin: state/publicChina’s biggest producer – and one impression in the annual Most Admired chart, though it’s hardly a new kid on city of Yantai in Shandong Province. Changyu’s wines have been sold in chain Waitrose. The producer’s international estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts:CoUntrY oF oriGin:australiaPernod ricardexiled Brit farmer George wyndham was too modest to give the wine estate he founded in 1828 his own name, so for 140 years the unter Valley shiraz specialist went under the name dalwood. when it was bought by Brian cGuigan from Penfolds in 1970 he renamed it wyndham estate in its founder’s honour, and built it into a 2m-case brand before selling to Pernod icard in 1990. it’s not seen by Pernod icard as one of the global power brands within in its wine portfolio but the French giant has recognised its place in ussie wine heritage by releasing an upmarket Founder’s eserve label. #41 estimatd GLoBaL sHiPmnts1.1m caseCoUntrY oF oriGin:south africaaccolade wines brand that originated in the marketing department of a telford-based wine distributor, with the �ner points sketched out over a meal at an italian restaurant, became the major UK market success for south frica in the post-partheid era. couple of quick changes in ownership allowed rival brands to chip away at a market position that once gave it 50% of the south frican wine market in the UK, but a more settled period under onstellation and, later, ccolade has steered it to calmer waters. the brand may not be the ubiquitous presence on supermarket shelves it once was but is still a force to be reckoned with. marCH 2013most admired wine Brands last year’s highest ranked company’s brands in its vote, including Woodbridge). But Delicato is a new entry at number four, pushing Fetzer into sixth last year’s chart, makes a return this time. bove: FetzerLeft: elicatoBelow left to right: Kendall-ondavi, Barefoot M idge Vineyards Kendall Jacksonhâteau ste delicato ondavi Fetzer Blossom Barefoot marCH 2013 most admired wine Brands Admired Wine Brands survey. made the top 50. Last year, there were four. In 2013, ve South our decision to count Concha y Toro and feedback from judges, even though the two wines belong to the same parent company.bove: Left: Leyda oncha y toro Leyda Undurraga marCH 2013 most admired wine Brands M outon La�teargauxheval BlancPetrusaute-Brion Le Pin torresouton Vega sicilia La�teargauxike last year, Bordeaux again survey’s rst year.There’s a new name at the at the expense of last year’s number one, Late improves on last year’s third-place nish, and there’s a return for Ausone, wines. This year’s vote again puts Torres at the third spots respectively.Duboeuf and Vega Sicilia again make the top 10, Antinori drops out of the top 10 altogether, despite Château d’Yquem has failed to make the Once again there’s no berth for Latour, survey.Perhaps tellingly, no Bordeaux company wine from Burgundy, Domaine de la he cellars at Haute-Brionbove: Cheval Blanc, Petrus, Le Below right: Château argauxa new entry in the top 10, and it’s also hello to Félix increased global competition, France’s reputation as Left: ubeouf vineyardsop: GuigalBelow: orres’s ioja winerymarCH 2013 marCH 2013 most admired wine Brands M Penfoldsloudy Bay Brancott estate wolf Blass Yellowtail Jacob’s reek oyster Bay wyndham estatebove: stateLeft: Cloudy Bay vineyardsAustralia & ew ZealandThis year, only nine brands from the year’s second placed wine, Jacob’s Creek, New Zealanders Babich, Wither Hills and Villa Maria all miss out this time to this year’s top 10 are Yellowtail, Wolf Blass and Wyndham Estate.