Hanfu 漢服 : The (Real) - PowerPoint Presentation

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Hanfu

漢服: The (Real) Traditional Chinese Clothing

Brought to you by:Toronto Guqin Societyhttp://torguqin.wordpress.com

Hanfu?

Chinese identify themselves by clothing, history as early as 7th c. BCE“Hanfu” first appeared in Chinese history books in 1st c. CECrossover design to the right, tied with sashes2D cutting: Easy to make, fits various body shapes beautifully

But wait, isn’t this Chinese…?

Yes, but of an ethnic minority called Manchus

Manchu Empire (Qing) ruled China in 1644-1911, and forced all ethnicities to wear their clothing; over 60 million died in resistance, of which at least 10 million were massacredAfter 1911, some scholars in China tried to bring back Hanfu, but majority of society took Western clothing, thinking that learning and doing Western things is necessary to survive

In the 21

st

Century, Chinese people searching for their own heritage feel that they should be confident to start wearing it again, and give Manchu clothing back its rightful origins.

Doesn’t Hanfu look Korean/Japanese?It should look similar!

China is the origin of many aspects of Japanese and Korean cultureThe similar clothing designs only prove the close ties between each other!

Major Categories of Hanfu

Yi-Shang

衣裳

: Top/skirt types

Yi-Ku

衣褲

: Top/Trouser types

Shenyi

深衣

: Joined top/skirt robe

Pao

袍

: Robes

Shou-fu

首服

: Headwear

Zhu-fu

足服

: Footwear

Xie

-Yi

褻衣

: Underwear

Yi-Shang

衣裳制: Top/skirt styleFor both men and womenThe most formal design“Morning ritual dress”Top piece: cross-collared

Yi-Shang for women are calledRu-qun 襦裙 (“Roo-chün”)Ru can be further classified:“Ao

襖

” :

thick

, double-layered tops

“Shan

衫

” :

thin

, unlined tops

Yi-Ku

衣褲制: Top/trouser style

For work, sport, or play!

Traditionally “commoner” clothing

called

Shuhe

裋褐

“Middle” wear for longer robes,

called

Zhongyi

/

ku

中衣

/

褲

Clothing for children!

Wear this for everyday life!

Shen-yi

深衣制: The “Deep Robe”Most ritualized design, for both men and womenTraditionally “Evening Dress”Designed by sage king Huang Di 黃帝, over 4700 years ago, by sewing Yi and Shang together into one robeClothing of

scholar-literatis(This instrument is a guqin ->)

Meanings of the Shenyi

Every part has a meaning!4 pieces of fabric on Yi top: 4 seasons12 pieces of fabric on Shang bottom: 12 monthsBack seam goes top to bottom: Rope measuring straightness, justiceSquare collar and rounded sleeves: Round Heaven, Square EarthSquare-trimmed belt: Balance of power and justiceSleeves go past the fingertip and back to elbow-length, equal to bottom length when let straight downBlack collar: Parents and grandparents aliveNavy collar : Parents alive, grandparents deceased

White collar: Parents and grandparents deceasedNo collar: In Mourning

Pao

-fu

袍服: Long Robes

Usually for men, but women wear it too!

The most creative type of Hanfu design

Round, crossed, or even square collars

Hidden knob buttons as well as sashes

Worn as outer coats, or on its own

May have long sleeves, or even no sleeves

Loosely defined as full-length cut, but top/bottom cut designs exist as well

Despite its stately look, they are

casual

or

semi-formal

clothing.

Examples of Robes

Yuanling-Pao

圓領袍

/

Panling-pao

盤領袍

“Round collared robes”

Daopao

道袍

/

Xingyi

行衣

“Daoist Robe”, “Travel Robe”

He-

cang

鶴氅

/

Beifeng

披風

(“

Heh-tsang

”)

“Crane coat”, “Back-vest”

Beixin

褙心

/

Bijia

比甲

“Back and Heart Vest”,

“Parallel robe”

Yesa

曳撒

“Jisun Robe” (Mongol-inspired banquet robe)

Shoufu

首服

: Headwear

4 main categories:

Guan

冠

: Formal, ritual hard coronets

Jin

巾

: Soft or hard gauze caps or headscarves

Mao

帽

: Brimmed or pre-shaped hats

Zhan/

Chai

簪釵

: Single or Duo-pronged Hairpins

Zhu-fu

足服

: Footwear

Generally cloth, wood and leather also used

Xie

鞋

: Shoes

Ji

屐

: Wooden sandals (raingear)

Xue

靴

: Boots

Mo

袜

: Socks

Boat shoes with upward toes

are worn with long Shang skirts

to prevent tripping over

L

ü

履

: Single-layered boat shoes

Xi

舄

: Multi-layered boat shoes

Xie-yi 褻衣: Underwear

Zhongyi 中衣 must be worn under outside clothing first, coupled with trousers

中褲 or skirt 中裙. Some robes require a Zhongdan 中單 robe to be worn.Underwear covering the front abdomen existed for both male and female, and are usually rectangular in shape.Interestingly, Mongol and Manchu period Chinese underwear are diamond-shaped

How to wear Hanfu?

Tie

sashes together in a live knot (eg. Butterfly knot)

Left side knots first, then right side

Skirts: Long sashes mean wrapping around waist before tying them up.

Trousers: Press and fold extra

parts of trousers around hips,

roll

the head up by a layer,

then tie them up towards the

centre.

Want to know more?Wikipedia, Google it up!

Keywords: “Han Chinese Clothing”, “Hanfu Movement”Search “Hanfu” on Facebook!Learn how to make Hanfu, at our website: http://torguqin.wordpress.com(Chinese) Search “漢服” (汉服) on tieba.baidu.comhttp://hanminzu.com

Remember that…

Hanfu is beautiful, and Hanfu is cool!but not all Chinese remember it: Remind them what it is, and spread the word!Hanfu is not “ancient”: It is modern and it is VERY hip! In fact, it is the future.Hanfu is diverse: It is not a messy

collection of all clothing worn by Chinesepeople in history, but a consummation ofChinese creativity and identity.Wearing Hanfu is not just for fun: It reminds us of our heritage, and be responsible to society and the world.Whatever the occasion, there is a righttype of Hanfu for it. Know what to wear!

Thank you for watching!

Hope to see you out in Hanfu soon.Prepared by Toronto Guqin Society, (CC BY-NC-ND) 2011http://torguqin.wordpress.com