Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yearns together at right angles to each other httpwwwtikpcoukknowledgetechnologywarpingandweavingweavingprocess The yarns that run up the length of the fabric are known as the ID: 195784
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Slide1
Woven fabric manufacture
Woven fabrics are made by interlacing two sets of yearns together at right angles to each other.
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The yarns that run up the length of the fabric are known as the
warp
threads.
The yarns that run across the fabric are called the
weft
threads.
The edge of the piece of fabric is called the
selvedgeSlide2
Plain weave
Most used woven constructionSlide3
Properties of plain weave
Strong
Firm
HardwearingSmooth
Relatively cost effectiveAvailable in lots of different weightsSlide4
Cailco
Plain weave, low cost, made in different weights and widths, suitable for experimental textile work, especially in the production of
toiles
. Can also be used in the production of low cost furnishings.Slide5
Voile
A lightweight plain weave sheer fabric made from cotton, silk or rayon, nylon or worsted.
Used in blouses, dresses, children’s wear and curtains
Nylon voile
Rayon voileSlide6
Rip-stop nylon
High performance plain weave fabric
Some of the warp and weft threads are doubled up at intervals.
Extra strong tear strength
End use: kites, high performance tents and performance sports wear.
Light weight, abrasion-resistant, sometimes with flourocarbon finishSlide7Slide8
Poplin
Is a plain weave, warp faced cotton fabric, which shows weft way ribs on its surface.
The warp is finer and weft is coarser.
Usually piece dyed or printed on.
End use: shirting, summer jackets, coats and kids wear.Slide9
Seersucker
Plain weave construction
Crinkled warp way stripes
, can be produced 3 ways:Slide10
Fabric is woven in stripes, alternate stripes up under different tension on the loom. Uses: dresses or table cloths.
Linen or cotton treated with caustic soda, usually in stripes resenting in crinkled stripes.
Fabric made with fibres with different shrinkage properties which results in crinkles.Slide11
Palin weave sample and diagramSlide12
Twill weave sample and diagramSlide13
Satin weave sample and diagramSlide14
Twill weave
Fabrics produce diagonal lines.
The direction of the weave will give different properties to the fabric, for example:
Herringbone Chevron:Slide15
Properties of twill woven fabric
Drapes well.
Most used constructions, gabardine and denim are twill weaves.
End uses: jackets, trousers, suits and curtains, jeans.Slide16
Satin weave
Warp faced fabric, which makes it strong in the warp direction, allowing it to drape well.
Smooth
shiney
surface.Weft thread only show through on the back.End uses: curtain lining, evening wear, upholstery, ribbons and trimmings depending on the fibre used,
eg, cotton/ polyester, acetate, silk.Slide17Slide18
Damask fabrics
Are made from more expensive mercerised cotton which is sometimes used for table cloths.
Mercerisation
is where caustic soda is used with cellulosic yarns to swell the fibres, the resulting yarn and fabric has better strength and an affinity to dye and the handle is improved.
The designs in damask fabrics are due to the construction alternating between being warp and weft faced, this is also known as inter changing
satin and sateen
weavesSlide19
Damask fabricsSlide20
Sateen
, not to be confused with
satin
,
[1][2] is a type of
fabric often found in bed sheets.Grey cotton sateen used to line a capeSateen is a term usually applied to cotton, or sometimes
rayon. Better qualities are
mercerized
to give a higher sheen. Some are only
calendered
to produce the sheen but this disappears with washing and is not considered genuine sateen. Sateen may be bleached, dyed, or printed. It is difficult to make good bound
buttonholes
on it as it has a tendency to slip at the seams.
Sateen produces the sheen and softer feel through the use of a different structure in the weaving process. The sateen structure is four over, one under, placing the most threads on the surface, making it extremely soft, though slightly less durable than other weaves. Standard non-sateen weaves use a one-over, one-under structure.
Satin
also uses this structure; however, materials such as silk, polyester, etc., are used instead of
cotton
. Sateen was also used for Vintage dress shirts and other Vintage type clothesSlide21
Sateen fabricSlide22
Crepe Fabric
These fabrics have a crinkled or puckered surface.
There is no definite pattern.
Wool crepes are used for high quality suits.
They are produced by using S and Z twist yarns, a crepe weave construction and a chemical or thermal treatment that makes the fabric shrink differently.Slide23
Crepe fabricSlide24
Jacquard fabric
Is a complicated pattern design in 3 or more colours.
It’s made by knitting or weaving on specialist jacquard machinery.
Woven jacquard fabrics are used interchanging all the different weaving patterns.
Mainly used for expensive upholstery fabrics and formal evening wear.Slide25
Jacquard weaveSlide26
Pile weave
As with pile knits, this fabric has a raised surface effect.
This pile is formed by tufts or loops that stand up from the fabric.
Velvet
and
corduroy are good examples of pile fabrics. They are used for trousers/ jackets or in garment production.Other end uses are upholstery or carpets. Different effects can be applied, sculpted, curled or textured.
Pile upholstery fabrics that have a combination of cut and uncut pile loops are the most hardwearing.Slide27
velveteen
Velveteen has a shorter pile after cutting than velvet.Slide28
VelvetSlide29
Needle cord or corduroy
Corduroy
is a ribbed cut weft- pile fabric that is brushed. The pile runs parallel to the selvedge and the cords may be medium or broad. Cotton corduroy is used for shirts, jackets and upholstery.
Needle cord
is made in the same way as corduroy, but the cords are very fine.Slide30
CorduroySlide31
Needle cord Slide32
Terry towelling
Woven terry towelling is a plain weave cotton fabric made from two warps.
The ground warp is tensioned and the pile warp is looser.
When the weft yarns are beaten into the fabric the looser pile warp ends form loops on one or both sides of the fabric.
Towelling is usually made from cotton and this combined with the loop construction makes it a very absorbent fabric, that’s easy to wash and doesn’t need ironing.
Ideal for towels, mats and dressing gowns.Slide33
Terry towellingSlide34
Fabric mixture
Is made with the warp of one fibre and the weft of another, e.g. cotton warp, wool weft.
This is called a UNION FABRIC , which can be cheaper than using just one fibre.
When mixture fabrics are dyed, the dye is taken up at different rates so that the fabric can looked speckled.
This is a deliberate designed effect.Slide35
Colour woven fabrics
Colour and weave effects are used by designers to create an unlimited variety of fabric effects.
Depending on the way warp and weft yarns interact with the weave construction different aesthetics results can be achieved……Slide36
Stripes
Tartan
Houndstooth
Checked fabricSlide37
Chambray
Has a warp in one colour and the weft in another, the result is a shimmering,
changeant
, shot silk effect.Slide38
Gingham
Is plain weave construction, its lightweight, mainly checked fabric that uses white and colour yarns.
A very popular fabric in the 1950’s.
Used for blouses, tablecloths and dresses/ uniform. When used for shirts it’s called
MADRAS.Slide39
Tartan
Construction is 2/2 twill.
Originally used for shawls, kilts made form wool
Each Highland clan have there own distinct tartan design.
Tartan is now made in other fibres and constructions and is used in fashion and furnishing for interiors.