Assoc Professor Dr Taher Rajab Kaddar Department of Textile and Spinning Engineering Faculty of Chemical and Petroleum Engineering ALBaath University Syria ID: 230085
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Slide1
A Study of Possibility of Improvement of Physical &Mechanical Characteristics of Damask Fabrics
Assoc. Professor Dr. Taher Rajab KaddarDepartment of Textile and Spinning EngineeringFaculty of Chemical and Petroleum EngineeringAL-Baath University - Syria E - mail : dr.t-kadd@mail.sy
Third International Textile Conference on Textile and Clothing , Lahore ,Pakistan
28
th
and 29
th March 2011Pearl Continental Hotel LahoreSlide2
2
A Study of Possibility of Improvement of Physical &Mechanical Characteristics of Damask Fabrics
Dr
.
Taher Rajab
KaddarAssociate ProfessorDepartment of Textile and Spinning EngineeringFaculty of Chemical and Petroleum EngineeringAL-Baath University
Syria E-mail :dr.t-kadd@mail.sy Slide3
31-Introduction1-Introduction:
Syrian textile industry works to enhancing the marketing of their products. The physical and mechanical properties play an important role in achieving competitiveness.The
Damask Fabrics are
a significant
heritage products in Syria. Damask Fabrics manufacturing technology
, was one of the five weaving technologies centers
in Byzantine and Islamic in the early Middle Ages .
It has been in the last century and in this century manufactured from
silk ,
cotton...
as
Broker fabrics ,
Damask Fabrics
,
Al-
Aagbani
,
Those
textiles
are
still popular despite the competition with foreign
industry .
It draw the attention of foreigners in
Damascus
,
and
they
buy them for their friends and relatives in their country
.
It is enough to know that the wedding dress of Queen Elizabeth II of Britain was made of the
Damascus
B
rokar
tissues.
in 1947. Slide4
41-IntroductionToday's Damask must achieve the requirements of international standard specifications, in order to withstand the challenges which it faces. We have been in this research the definition , Damask history production .
Through the practical study in a national company (General Company for spinning and weaving Damascus) were studied physical and mechanical properties of Damask produced in the country (type of yarn used, the linear density of Yarns, tensile strength and elongation of the cloth in the direction of warp and weft, weight per square & longitudinal meter, weave, width, … )We are produced two new improved varieties with new specifications according to international market requirements to enhance the competitiveness of the company, which makes the Syrian textile industry more effectively. Research
constitutes an important contribution in continuous improvement & development of Syrian textile companies.
The search results can be applied in all similar textile companiesSlide5
5When you mention the word Damask, comes to mind immediately the name of Damascus, Syria , called Damask of Fame to Damascus produced by the manufacture of other textiles of high quality. These industries have become a distinctive part of the heritage of Syria. It was made of silk or cotton or linen and is now produced from any raw materials as possible. Damascus people transferred its industry to Andalusia so it's called according to Damascus, Damask has many types such as Atlas and Al-Thabori and Hermazi and AL-Munier (Enlightening) , AL-Mushem ( Contributor ) and Baptist and Corrugated and Ragged Rainy and Almekhel.Damask width was 145 cm , now has increased to 220 cm.
It has lost market share after the nineteenth century out of Muslim Spain, but that it was rarely in some places in the thirteenth century. [2, 17, 18].Italy Damask industry began in the fourteenth century. It is the fourteenth century until the sixteenth century Damask was made in one color drawings of shiny face on the cloth and normal ground. Then was woven from colors yarn , and have been introduced in the metal yarn in it's construction, such as gold and other weft yarn , which gave it a glamorous and beautiful. 2 –A brief history Slide6
62 –A brief history Damascus is famous in
textile manufacturing . (Qaimariya) is called in small India , and depending on the popularity of this industry , the textile trade is concentrated in Damascus ...The industry is still present even today. During the reign of Louis XVI and his wife Marie Antoinette of Austria at the age of 15 years, married to Louis XVI at the age of 19 years. After months attended a fashion designer and offered her a cloth and said she'll like it because it is very rare and is made in an eastern town known for textile industry and when she saw it said (this is what I want and what I wanted to, I've really liked Damask, Damascus
Brokare (Brocade)
is unmatched which is befitting for ladies. And spread the ancient The newly dramatically all over the
world. Modern
Damask produced by A Electronic Weaving Machinery equipped with electronic Jacquard and multi-threaded natural and artificial [1,5,8,15,21,24]. Used in addition to blankets to clothing and home furnishings, upholstery and many other uses.
The Syrian textile industry has risen highly, it is one of the important industries which the government is trying through its plans to overcome all the obstacles encountered in order to create the right atmosphere for Arab and foreign investors to invest in it. It is an strategy industry, depends on the Syrian cotton yarn locally available in abundance.Slide7
3 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage There are more than a hundred kind of traditional fabrics, each type of about twenty species, characterized by some of the material and color, drawing, patterns and trimmings, etc. Here are some of them:
Brokare ( Brocade) : A silk cloth decorated with beautiful drawings interspersed with gold thread and silver. Al-Dema : A fabric invented by man of Damascus .
Al-
Saieh
:
epigraphy technical fabric is characterized by bright, made from silk and cotton in different colors.
Al-Alajh: type of Alsaih
.Blanket: the advantage of fees
obtrusive
Al-Agbani: Cloth made from silk, embroidered after waving with brocaded thread or
yellow or silver, each drawing or embroidering take a special name .
Damask:
Gabardine and thick fabric , tapestries weaved his body to the degree of innovation, has gained wide fame, fit the faces of mattresses and sofas.
Poplars' Fashions :
A modern industry based on making clothing suitable for use
embroidered women
blouses made of Brocade coats and women's decorative lacy and other popular clothing represent the various Syrian cities and rural areas.
Table1
and Table 2 include Some types of a Damask fabrics.
In spite of
that machinery
textile industries
dominated
heavily on fabrics manufactured
on hand
looms
,
but
it
are still top of wings exhibitions interested in this kind of art textile
. Slide8
83 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage Damask Digital
Baby Damask Waverly
Dandy Damask
It is Damask
Damask
Damask Shower
Table 1 Some types of Damask fabricsSlide9
9 3 - Classification the Syrian textile heritage
Damask - Damask Fabric Classic Collection of Damask FabricA fabric woven to achieve a tone on tone effect. Patterns are often floral. It is lighter weight than brocade. Sometimes referred to as Jacquard.
Damask Fabric
Exclusive Patterns Suitable for Upholstery and Drapery with a vintage appeal Includes Honeybee, Dragonfly, Hinsdale,
Harrowgate
& More.
Damask Prints - Modern Damask Print Fabric - Contemporary Damask Print Fabric
A new take on Classic Damask fabrics. These modern damask prints are the same design you love but are available in a variety of colors and fabric types.Slide10
104 - Methods of producing A Damask fabrics4-1 - The traditional method for the manufacture of A Damask fabrics:
Traditional fabrics are produced currently on hand looms and is as old and low-productivity, It's maintained for the purposes of tourism and are stationed in Damascus as a Professional market , Silk market and Azemeh Palace Museum Figure 1.[26 , 27] . Stages of the manufacturing from natural silk: Kababp( winder) to El-Fattal (twister), and
Mosadi(wrapper
) and dyer ,
Almozaiki
, Mulki (drawing in) , Weaver and dakkak (dropper) and then turn the fabric to the piston.Slide11
114-1 - The traditional method for the manufacture of A Damask fabrics
From Damascus city – syria Figure 1 hand loomSlide12
124 2 - The mechanical method for the manufacture of A Damask
Figure 2 shuttle less weaving machine (Ruti) Slide13
134-3 – The electronically method for the manufacture of A Damask
4-3 - The electronically method for the manufacture of A Damask:New Damask are made of 100% cotton yarn on electronically jacquard weaving machines, used in upholstery and curtains, mattress covers and bedspreads.
This development has allowed to move the 30 000 hooks and speed of 700 rpm [6 , 7,8, 9, 10, 12, 13 ,14, 23,].
The manufacturers of jacquard machines are : Grosse and Schleicher (Germany) ,
Bonas
( England) and Staubli
(France). Stages of technology for the manufacture of Damask of cotton yarn: warping - draw in - Weaving .Slide14
14 5- Case Study5- Case
Study5-1 - Introduction: The study was conducted in a public company (General Company for Spinning and Weaving Company Damascus), which produces cotton yarn & fabrics, dyed, mercerized and printed. It contains factories for the spinning and weaving, dyeing. 5-2 - Stages of technology for the manufacture Damask
fabrics of cotton yarn
Figure 3 Outline of processes for the production of a Damask fabrics on the modern weaving machinery .
Figure 4 Outline of the indirect warping machine BENNINGER.
-Weaving Machine:
Rapier Weaving Machine G6200 SULZER TEXTIL equipped with electronic Jacquard machines GROSSE EJP-2 with 5376 hooks. Slide15
15
Figure 3 - technological stapes for the manufacture of Damask fabrics of cotton yarn
Yarns reception and testing
Warp yarns preparation ,doubled ( dyed & white)
Weft yarns preparation ,single
(
dyed & white)
Sectional warping
Drawing-in
,
reeding
, knotting
Weaving
Fabric quality control
Damask fabrics packaging
Damask fabrics storage &customer delivering
Figure 3 - technological stapes for the manufacture
of Damask fabrics of cotton yarnSlide16
16indirect warping machine BENNINGERFigure 4 A diagram of a indirect warping
machine BENNINGERSlide17
175-3 - Steps of design and manufacturing of A Damask Fabric aided by computer computerName of the process
No. Name of the processNo.
Electronic Reduction
7
Input Design
1
Design finishing
8
Cropping
2
Weave editor
9
Resizing
3
Harness preparation
10
Color Reduce
4
Weaving
11
Redrawing
5
Slow Reduction
6
The
design section consists of the following devices: scanner, computer and keyboard, graphic table unite and the printer. German software[ 10,20 ] :
(GROSSE PROFETIONAL JACQUARD DESIGNE SYSTEM (JAC-ARTIST PRO)).
Table 2 consists steps of design and manufacture of computer-assisted Damask:
Table 2 the following steps for the implementation of computer-aided designSlide18
185-4- laboratory equipment 5-4- laboratory equipment : count of yarn -SUPERBA to check sliver and yarns, Tex Techno
Statimat Me: to examine the tensile strength of yarn and fabrics[3,4,16, 20,22.] . 5-5- Raw materials used for weaving Damask fabrics: Using single-threaded or doubling colored. The table 3 shows Results of tests:
No
Yarn count
(Ne)
using of
Thread
Twist (t/m)
tension (yarn/
cN)elongation (E)
(%)
CV
(%)
Length Cutter
(Km)
Dyed
raw
Dyed
raw
Dyed
raw
Dyed
raw
Dyed
1
2.5
weft
281
1980
1945
6.03
5.63
4.80
3.84
9.17
8.77
2
8.5/1 O.E
weft
550
984.97
914.95
6.64
7.52
6.58
5.11
14.54
13.81
3
24/2
carded
warp
639
794.70
780.08
6.34
5.36
4.59
5.54
16.25
16.25
4
30/2carded
warp
650
703.66
555.48
5.50
6.39
5.06
4.65
15.76
14.49
Table 3 shows Results of testsSlide19
195-6 - Types of Damask Fabrics which were studded :5-6 - Types of Damask Fabrics which were studded :
Newly Damask are of cotton or synthetic yarn, silk, wool , used in modern varieties of clothing , apparel ,upholstery and curtains, mattress covers and bedspreads. Analysis was conducted and a study of A Damask fabrics produced in the company of the Spinning and Weaving was to extract data on the linear density for Yarns - warp and weft densities - weave - weight per square and longitudinal meter, Cloth width - uses of each type - the number of colors. Tables (from 4 to 6) consists the physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics which have been studied and laboratory tested.Slide20
20No.Testing item name
Testing result
Damask fabric 705-A
Damask
fabric 705-
B 1
Damask fabric sample
2
Fabric
width
(cm)
182
18
2
3
Selvedge type & weds (cm)
Cut- Selvedge 1cm
Cut- Selvedge 1cm
4
Squire meter weight (gr/m2)
254
257
5
liner meter weight (gr/m)
462.28
467.74
6
Repeat dimension(cm)
8.5 x 9.4
16.8 x 15.8
7
Warp density(yarn/cm)
36
35
8
Weft density (yarn/cm)
15
15
9
Weave in decorative section
Twill
1/4
twill1/2
&
2
/
8
10
Weave in ground section
Twill
1/3
Satin
2/5
1
1
Number of color
2
2
12
Type & count of warp (Ne)
29.84/2
100% cotton
29.46/2
100%
cotton
13
twist direction of warp
- Z
- Z
14
Type & count of weft (Ne )
8.5 -
100% cotton
8.5 -
100% cotton
15
resistance to tension in direction of the warp
(N)
951.01
885.90
16
resistance to tension in direction of the weft
(N)
661.63
627.80
17
Elongation in warp direction
(%
)
11.9
12.33
18
Elongation in weft direction
)
(%
12.79
11.42
19
twist direction of warp
Z
Z
20
Weaving machine
Sulzere G6200
Sulzere
G6200
21
Weaving machine weds (cm)
220
220
23
Weaving machine (rpm)
400
400
Table 4
The physical
and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics Slide21
Table 5 physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics No.
Testing item nameTesting results
Damask fabric (705-C
(
Damask
fabric )
705-D) 1
Damask fabric sample
2
Fabric
width
(cm)
182
182
3
Selvedge type & weds (cm)
1 Cut- Selvedge
1 Cut- Selvedge
4
Squire meter weight (gr/m2)
262
254
5
liner meter weight (
gr
/m)
467.84
462.28
6
Repeat dimension(cm)
27.5X15.8
10.8X20.4
7
Warp density(yarn/cm)
34
38
8
Weft density (yarn/cm)
18
16
8
Weave in decorative section
Weft Rips
1/4
Twil
5/1
&
1/4
10
Weave in ground section
Satan
5/2
Satan
5/2
1
1
Number of color
2
2
12
Type & count of warp (Ne)
30/2
100% cotton
30/2
100% cotton
13
twist direction of warp(T/M
- Z
- Z
14
Type & count of weft (Ne)
8.5 -
100% cotton
8.5 -
100% cotton
Slide22
22Table 6 physical and mechanical properties of Damask fabrics No.Testing item name
Testing results
Damask fabric 710-A
(
Damask fabric710-B
1
Damask fabric sample
2
Fabric
width (cm)
136
136
3
Selvedge type & weds (cm)
1 Cut- Selvedge
1 Cut- Selvedge
4
Squire meter weight (
gr
/m2)
239
239
5
liner meter weight (
gr
/m)
326
325.04
6
Repeat dimension(cm)
7.9 X 12.4
10.8 X 20.4
7
Warp density(yarn/cm)
34
34
8
Weft density (yarn/cm)
13
18
9
Weave in decorative section
Satin
5/2
Satin
5/2
10
Weave in ground section
twill
1/2
twill 6/2
11
Number of color
2
2
12
Weaving machine
RUTI - Automatic
RUTI – Automatic
13
Weaving machine (rpm)
120
120 Slide23
5-7 The new and modern types of Damask fabrics It was designed and produced two new types of Damask fabrics according to market needs . by GROSSE (CAD / CAM) System German company
, It was conducted the tests of the physical and mechanical characteristics of Damask (1181 ) product , and Damask (2) by modern
laboratory devices.
Table
(7)
shows the results of a study of the physical & mechanical properties of the modern Damask fabrics.Slide24
24No.Testing item name
Testing results
Damask fabric 1181
Damask fabric
2
1
Damask fabric samples
2
Fabric
weds
(cm)
182
182
3
Selvedge type & weds (cm)
1 Cut- Selvedge
1 Cut- Selvedge
4
Squire meter weight (gr/m2)
414
239
5
liner meter weight (gr/m)
753.48
325.04
6
Repeat dimension(cm)
30 X 41.5
28.5 X
25
7
Warp density(yarn/cm)
33
66
8
Weft density (yarn/cm)
22
15
9
Weave in decorative section
4 Damascus designs
Traditional designs
10
Weave in ground section
Traditional designs
Traditional designs
11
Number of color
2
2
12
Type & count of warp (Ne)
20.73/2 Ne
100%
cotton
)
N d
(
36.73
+
35.5
+
33.43
100%
shanel
13
direction of warp
- Z
- Z
14
Type & count of weft(Ne )
2.78
+
17.07
+
13.51
100%
cotton
5.56+2.71
+
2.36 shanel
15
resistance to tension in warp direction
(N)
1005.94
1011.91
16
resistance to tension in weft direction
(N)
1216.34
432.25
17
Elongation in warp direction
(%
)
17.65
11.08
18
Elongation in weft
direction
(%
)
13.66
11.27
Table 7 physical and mechanical properties of the new improved Damask fabrics
:Slide25
255-8 Discussion the results of tests The Results of tests of tension resistance in direction of warp and weft for the variety Damask (1181) and Damask (2),were documented and analysed .We
have established detailed reports of the analysis and testing results of physical and mechanical properties of Damask in the Department of jacquard fabric , and executive instructions relating to its production, and tension strength and elongation diagrams for produced fabrics, were identified as the values of the terms of the specifications. Observation: we prepared an attachment contains resistance to tension diagrams in direction of weft & warp for all samplesSlide26
265-8 Discussion the results of tests
1 - The test results of the physical and mechanical characteristics of A Damask Fabrics , tables (from 4 to 7), and the results of tests of resistance to tension in direction of weft & warp of all fabrics produced meet the quality requirements of both functional and aesthetic, to increase the demand for modern products in market, absence of complaints by customers.
2 -The physical
& mechanical properties of yarns
affect on
Damask fabrics , table (3) show disparity between values of the assumed specification and real values, which affect the physical and mechanical properties, it is necessary to provide good yarns for industry .
3 - Appears from the table 7 the high value of the resistance to tension in direction of
warp of the new varieties and increase the weight per square meter of the Damask (1181) and Damask (2) compared with the value of the resistance to tension in direction of warp of the items (705 - 710) in the tables (4-6), due to the use of thick weft yarn in 1181 and a synthetic
yarn in the Damask (2) which gives good features .Slide27
276 - Suggestions and Conclusions 1 - It has been defined and determined the characterization and classification of
Damask fabrics and the physical mechanical specification , and it indicate the need to update the design of Damask to meet the requirements of the tourist industry, which is reflected in the national income , and economic and social development. 2 - The study showed that Damask fabrics still enjoys a worldwide reputation for well-built through a long history back for several centuries is still required in the international market and reflects the Syrian heritage and the nobility of the
textile Syrian industry where history come from deep road , for this reason it is recommended the revival of the industry and maintain.Slide28
286 - Suggestions and Conclusions 3 -The production of new Damask fabrics
with new drawings and specifications fulfils the requirements of fashion leads to quality & productivity improvement, and increase the products added – value, as the selling price of new products increases to 60% .
4 - The development of scientific methodology to study, analyze and diagnose the problems of the textile industry, through the research model, which benefit from it the textile companies and the scientific
institutes.Slide29
296 - Suggestions and Conclusions 5 - The information contained in the research contribute to identify the problems of the state and society and to find solutions and increase the stock of knowledge and keep pace with market requirements and develop product lines.
6 - The results, reports, laboratory analysis diagrams , which has been documented and saved, constitutes a scientific base for developing the Syrian Standard, which improve
the prestige of Damask fabrics in the international market
.Slide30
307- References1 - ( Abed Albaki Sami 2001) , Computer aided textile design , Cairo , Egypt .
2 - (Al-Atrash, Reem Mansour. 1996), the Book of Silk in Syria, the banner of Iskenderun, Syria and Lebanon, a publication of the Syrian Ministry of Culture . 3 -(Adanur sabit . 2001) , Hand book of weaving , Technomic Publishing Co. , Department of Textile Engineering , Abourn University, Alabama , U. S. A.4 - Arindam, Basu ,2006 ,Textile Testing , Fiber , Yarn & Fabric , Published by: The South India Textile Research Association, Printed by: M/s .Shristi Impression, India.
5 - ASTM D 3597-89 - upholstery fabric .
6 - BS 2543 – 91- upholstery fabric
7 – BSI - Global . Com. , (2010) , quality/standards/index .
xalter
, Available from: http:// www.emea.bsi-global.com/quality/standards/index.xalter, [Accessed5August 2010].
8 - Bonas
Griftith (2007) , Instruction Manual of Electronic Jacquard Machine , England.
9 – Giovanni , Castellei , Salvatore , Maietta , Giuseppe & others (2000) - Weaving-Reference Books of Textile Technologies , Milano , Italy .
10-Grosse (2004) , Operating Manual of Electronic Jacquard Machine,EJP-2 .Germany
11-INTI International University,Nilai,Malaysia, ASST Workshop on Engineering Education , Present Status , Trends and Challenges 19–23 July 2010 Damascus , Syria
12-Jenkins, David, ed.: The Cambridge History of Western Textiles, Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2003 .Slide31
317- References13 -Kadolph, Sara J. ( 2007) , ed.: Textiles, 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall.
14 - Mario, Bona, 1994 - Textile Quality , physical methods of product and process control,Texilia, IStituto per la Tradizione la Tecnoloqia Tessile S.P.A,printed by: Nuova oflito, Mappano (Torino , Italy ) .
15 -Monnas, Lisa. Merchants, Princes and Painters: Silk Fabrics in Italian and Northern Paintings 1300-1550. London and New Haven, Yale University Press, 2008 .
16--
Praxiom
Research Group Limited ,(2010) , ISO 9000 and ISO9001Plain English,
Alberta , Canada , Available from : www.praxiom.com . , [ accessed 6 August 2010] .
17- Syrian Standard (m. S. O 1254/1993), upholstery fabrics.
18 - (Taher Kaddar . 2008) , weaving technology (2), AL- Baath University Publishing directorate, Homs.
19 - (Taher Kaddar . 1997), the entrance to the Total Quality Management and ISO 9000, Harvest House for printing, publishing, distribution, Damascus.
20 - Romanian STAS 1111-78 - upholstery fabric
21 - Schleicher (2007) , Instruction manual of electronic jacquard machine , Germany .
22 -
Sor Heoh Saw
( 2010 )
,
Quality Assurance in Engineering Education in Far East ,
23 -
Spinning and Weaving General Corp
oration (2007) , Internal system , Jacquard Weaving Factory chapter , Damascus – Syria .
24-Staubli (2007), manual Instruction of electronic jacquard
machine,Staubli
CIX-4 .
25-
Sulzer
(2004) , Instruction manual of electronic jacquard machine
Sulzer
G 6200 .
26 - Susan C . Wally ,
Dr
Deborah
Vess
(1998-2001
) ,
The Art and History of Weaving ,
Georgia , Georgia College & State University and the Board of Regents of the University System of Georgia .
27 - Wikimedia Foundation, Inc (2010) , the free encyclopedia , Jacquard weaving , Text is available under the
Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike License
; Retrieved from "
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jacquard-weaving
, [Accessed 5 August 2010].Slide32
32Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, Damascus
Fig. 5 Jacquard weaving factory, DamascusSlide33
Dr. Eng. Taher Rajab KaddarAssociate ProfessorDepartment of Textile and Spinning EngineeringFaculty of Chemical and Petroleum Engineering AL-Baath University-Syria
E- mail: dr.t-kadd@mail.sy Cell : 00963 933 517314Thank you