PPT-Wave-Dominated Coasts In open water, waves are purely an oscillatory motion

Where water depth lt 05 wavelength water interacts with bed wave base Typical ocean waves have l 1030 m fairweather wave base FWWB is about 515 m depth Large storm waves can have . Coasts. Coastal Erosion [Date]. Today I will:. Know the key terms. Know how a bay and wave cut platform is formed . Geography. Coasts. Processes of Erosion at the Coastline. 1. Hydraulic Action: . Unit 2 – Natural Environment. Topic 1 – Coastal Landscapes. Lesson Aims:. . Able to describe the characteristics of . destructive. and . constructive. waves. Waves. Waves are responsible for just about all the physical features and changes found along coastlines.. This belongs to:. ______________________. You should know…. RAG. How rock type (geology) and structure influence coastal . landforms (Concordant. and Discordant coasts).  . How . landforms . such as . Lecture/notes . on Waves. Waves. Motion of a disturbance. Ex – jump. Do you feel it?. Do you hear it? . When I jump. . . . Energy is transferred through the floor (vibrates). Energy is transferred through air (sound). Vocabulary. Period: the time for one cycle of simple harmonic motion, or the time for a full wavelength to pass a position.. Frequency: the number of cycles, or the number of wavelengths passing a position, in one second. . Waves & Sound. Important terms. PERIODIC. . MOTION:. Any motion that repeats itself in equal interval of time is known as periodic motion in equal intervals of time along same path back and forth.. Interference of Waves – Standing Waves. Tsunamis. Waves: Frequency, Wavelength, Velocity. Wave Motion. A vibrating point “drags” its . neighbours. into motion. As the motion spreads through space – a wave forms. Today I will:. Know the key terms. Know how a bay and wave cut platform is formed . Geography. Coasts. Processes of Erosion at the Coastline. 1. Hydraulic Action: . Waves crash against a cliff and drive water under great pressure into cracks in the rock. This pressure squeezes the air and as the wave falls back the air expands explosively, loosening pieces of rock.. Hooke’s Law. When a spring is stretched, a restoring force is created.. The restoring force is proportional to the displacement . The restoring force is always directed toward the equilibrium point. Explain how force, velocity, and acceleration change as an object vibrates with simple harmonic motion.. Calculate the spring force using Hooke’s law.. OBJECTIVES. What is periodic motion?. A repeated motion (e.g. pendulum swinging) that is back and forth over the same path.. Get 1 full page and 1 half page of paper. Fold full sheet of paper. about 1-1.5” short of even. Insert half sheet in the middle. Staple . across . the fold. Pick up the top two pages and starting from the bottom, cut the top two . - Jon . Kabat. -Zinn. Waves are moving . energy. !. Most waves wind-driven. Moving energy along ocean/air interface:. Wind main disturbing force. Boundary between and within fluids with different densities. Energy is moving, not water. orbital motion. energy is transferred via circular motions. water (and gull) return to original position. the wave form moves forward. Motion decreases with depth. At. a depth of ½ of the wavelength, the motion is not significant.. 18-1 Mechanical waves. In this chapter, we consider only . mechanical waves. , such as . sound waves. , . water waves. , and . the waves transmitting in a guitar’s strings.. . . Elastic mediums.