PPT-Wave-Dominated Coasts In open water, waves are purely an oscillatory motion

Where water depth lt 05 wavelength water interacts with bed wave base Typical ocean waves have l 1030 m fairweather wave base FWWB is about 515 m depth Large storm waves can have . The sea is a windy place.. The wind makes waves. Waves become tall and break as the sea becomes shallow. . Some coasts are always battered by waves. . Some coasts don’t get big waves. . Big waves during storms can erode the coastline. . This belongs to:. ______________________. You should know…. RAG. How rock type (geology) and structure influence coastal . landforms (Concordant. and Discordant coasts).  . How . landforms . such as . Typically, harmonic motion decreases in amplitude with time….this realistic model describes damped harmonic motion.. The damping effect is a result of friction and internal resistance of the system to further motion.. Doppler Effect. ~apparent change in frequency of a wave due to the motion of the source of the wave.. If the object is moving towards the observer the frequency will appear to increase. If the object is moving away from the observer the frequency will appear to decrease. Vocabulary. Period: the time for one cycle of simple harmonic motion, or the time for a full wavelength to pass a position.. Frequency: the number of cycles, or the number of wavelengths passing a position, in one second. . Interference of Waves – Standing Waves. Tsunamis. Waves: Frequency, Wavelength, Velocity. Wave Motion. A vibrating point “drags” its . neighbours. into motion. As the motion spreads through space – a wave forms. Today I will:. Know the key terms. Know how a bay and wave cut platform is formed . Geography. Coasts. Processes of Erosion at the Coastline. 1. Hydraulic Action: . Waves crash against a cliff and drive water under great pressure into cracks in the rock. This pressure squeezes the air and as the wave falls back the air expands explosively, loosening pieces of rock.. Hooke’s Law. When a spring is stretched, a restoring force is created.. The restoring force is proportional to the displacement . The restoring force is always directed toward the equilibrium point. © 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.. What is a Coast?. * A coast is the strip of land that is met by the water’s edge; it leads to the open ocean.. * . Coasts . are temporary structures, often subject to rapid change.. Leonardo de Vinci. Waves Properties. 1. Transverse Waves:. The particles of the medium vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave. Ex. In the ocean, waves travel across but the water only oscillates up and down returning to their original position. . Pulse - a single wave from a disturbance. Ex. Throwing a rock in water (a pulse travels in all directions from the point of contact). - Jon . Kabat. -Zinn. Waves are moving . energy. !. Most waves wind-driven. Moving energy along ocean/air interface:. Wind main disturbing force. Boundary between and within fluids with different densities. Energy is moving, not water. orbital motion. energy is transferred via circular motions. water (and gull) return to original position. the wave form moves forward. Motion decreases with depth. At. a depth of ½ of the wavelength, the motion is not significant.. 18-1 Mechanical waves. In this chapter, we consider only . mechanical waves. , such as . sound waves. , . water waves. , and . the waves transmitting in a guitar’s strings.. . . Elastic mediums.