PPT-Waves “ The impetus is much quicker than the water, for it often happens that the wave

Leonardo de Vinci Waves Properties 1 Transverse Waves The particles of the medium vibrate perpendicularly to the direction of the wave. Unit 2 – Natural Environment. Topic 1 – Coastal Landscapes. Lesson Aims:. . Able to describe the characteristics of . destructive. and . constructive. waves. Waves. Waves are responsible for just about all the physical features and changes found along coastlines.. Pg. 459 - 461. Properties of Waves. In order to study the properties of waves, a ripple tank is used. A shallow, glass-bottomed tank on left. ~2cm of water is added. Light from a source above the tank passes through the water and illuminates a screen on the table below. The Motion of the Ocean…. Marine Science. Day 1: . Atmospheric Circulation . Objectives. :. What is physical oceanography?. What are the layers of the atmosphere?. Explain how the surface of the Earth is heated.. Waves. What You Will Learn. Identify the parts of a wave. . • Explain how the parts of a wave relate to wave movement. . • Describe how ocean waves form and move. . • Classify types of waves. . Interference of Waves – Standing Waves. Tsunamis. Waves: Frequency, Wavelength, Velocity. Wave Motion. A vibrating point “drags” its . neighbours. into motion. As the motion spreads through space – a wave forms. 1 . to 2. Defining ‘Coast’ and Waves. Lesson Objectives. 1) Know what is meant by term the ‘coast’.. 2) Understand waves. . Success Criteria. )Define ‘coast’.. 2)Draw an accurate annotated wave diagram.. Identify the parts of a wave. . • Explain how the parts of a wave relate to wave movement. . • Describe how ocean waves form and move. . • Classify types of waves. . Have you seen a wave? . We all know what ocean waves look like. Even if you’ve never been to the seashore, you’ve most likely seen waves on TV. . water. and . energy. . Anyone who has watched breakers roll into the shore, or been seasick on a boat, knows very well that waves move. But surprisingly, the water in waves doesn’t travel much at all. Josh Moser. &. Chris . Wai. Rogue waves are being reported more and more in today’s world.. Rogue waves are being reported more and more in today’s world.. Rogue waves are being reported more and more in today’s world.. Waves. Water and Seismic Waves. Transverse Waves. Longitudinal Waves. Frequency, Period and Amplitude. Crests, Troughs and Wavelength. Universal Wave Equation. Waves. Waves are disturbances which transfer energy over a distance. A wave is a disturbance in a medium that carries energy without a net movement of particles.. Ocean . waves are formed as wind blows across the surface of the ocean, creating small ripples, which eventually become waves with increasing time and distance. . - Jon . Kabat. -Zinn. Waves are moving . energy. !. Most waves wind-driven. Moving energy along ocean/air interface:. Wind main disturbing force. Boundary between and within fluids with different densities. Energy is moving, not water. orbital motion. energy is transferred via circular motions. water (and gull) return to original position. the wave form moves forward. Motion decreases with depth. At. a depth of ½ of the wavelength, the motion is not significant.. 26. th. , . 2016. Trigger Warning –. We’ll talk about tsunamis today. Wave Steepness . = wave height (H)/ wavelength (L). If the wave steepness exceeds 1/7 – the wave breaks!. So….anytime a wave exceed the 1:7 ratio – it breaks! At shore or at sea…..