How do we study them Have they always been here Oceanography The scientific study of earths oceans Ocean currents Chemical composition Seafloor sediments amp topography Marine life How ID: 653572
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15.1 The OceansSlide2
Who has been to an ocean?
How do we study them?
Have they always been here?Slide3
Oceanography
The scientific study of earth’s oceans
Ocean currents
Chemical composition
Seafloor sediments & topography
Marine life
How?Slide4
Technology
Ocean floor topography
Sonar: a boat emits a sound that bounces off the ocean floor. The boat records the time it takes and calculates the distance.
Side-scan sonar: sound waves leave the boat at an angle so underwater hills can be mapped.Slide5
Technology
Satellites: monitor ocean properties from space
Ocean surface temps
Ocean currents
Wave conditions
Crazy Slide6
Have the oceans always been here?
Imagine a world without oceans.
Have they always been here? How did they form?Slide7
Ocean history
Earth is about 4.6 billion years old
Geologic clues indicate that oceans have existed most of that time.
Sediments deposited in water
Lava that cooled underwater Slide8
Where did the water come from?
2 hypothesized sources of water
Comet
impacts
Water was released when meteors hit the ground
Possibly enough to fill ocean basins over
time
Meteorite impacts
Contain up to 0.5% water
Would have been more than sufficient to fill oceans
Slide9
Water release
Volcanism
When volcanoes erupt they release carbon dioxide and water vapor
Eruptions early in earth’s history slowly moved water from inside the earth into the atmosphere
When temps cooled the water vapor
condensed
into the oceansSlide10
Blue Planet
71% of earth’s surface is covered by oceans
Our bodies are about 70% water. Coincidence?
97% of earth’s water is saltwater
Average depth of the oceans is 3800 m (2.4 miles).Slide11
Oceans
Pacific: largest ocean, larger than all landmasses combined
Atlantic
Indian
Artic
AntarcticSlide12
Seas
Seas: saltwater bodies that are smaller than oceans and mostly landlocked.
Examples?Slide13
In sum…
Oceanography: study of oceans. Uses technology
2 hypothesized sources of the earth’s water
Blue Planet: oceans and water distributionSlide14
15.2 Seawater
Ever swam in an ocean? Accidentally taste the water?
96.5% water and 3.5% dissolved salts
Mostly
NaClSlide15
Salinity
Salinity: the amount of dissolved salts in seawater
Overall, the average salinity of the oceans is 3.5% (35
ppt
)
But salinity can actually vary from place to placeSlide16
Salinity variation
Salinity is higher where evaporation exceeds precipitation. Why?
Salinity is lower in places where freshwater is added. Examples?
Where is the world’s
saltiest water?Slide17
Salt Cycle
Sources of sea salt:
Volcanic gases contain chlorine and sulfur dioxide. These gases dissolve in water and form ions
Weathering of rocks on earth’s surface (sodium, calcium, potassium, iron). These ions are flushed into the ocean by riversSlide18
Salt Cycle
Overall salinity is always at 3.5%. Therefore, salts are always being removed at about the same rate they are being added. It is balanced.Slide19
Salt Cycle
Removal of salts: salt precipitation, salt spray, marine animals use them to form shellsSlide20
Physical properties of seawater
Density: ions in seawater increase the density
Freshwater: 1.00 g/cm
3
Seawater: 1.02-1.03 g/cm
3
What effect does this have?Slide21
Physical properties…
Light absorption:
Water absorbs light
Light penetrates only the upper 100m of seawater
Below that depth it is dark and there’s not enough light for photosynthesis
What does this mean for sea life?Slide22
Ocean Layering
Surface temperatures: average 15 Celsius. Warmer or colder at the poles?
Water temp decreases significantly with depth.
Deep ocean water is always cold, even in the tropics.Slide23
Ocean layering
Temperature Profile: water temp vs. depthSlide24
Ocean layers
Surface layer: top, sunlit layer of ocean water. About 100m thickSlide25
Ocean layers
Thermocline: transition layer. Temp decreases rapidly with depth.Slide26
Ocean Layers
Bottom Layer: cold, dark, uniform temps near freezing.Slide27
Layers
Surface and thermocline layers are absent at the poles where water is cold everywhere.
What causes ocean layering? How is cold water different than warm water?Slide28
Water Masses
Deep water is colder, saltier and therefore more dense. It sinks and doesn’t mix with other layers.
This water migrates slowly toward the equator as one mass.
Where is the densest water in the world?Slide29
In sum…
Salinity averages 3.5% but can vary between locations
Sources & removal of salt
Ocean layers based on density & temp
Water massesSlide30
15.3 Ocean Movements
Oceans are always in motion
Waves
Tides
Currents
upwellingSlide31
Waves
Wave: rhythmic movement that carries energy through space or matter (ocean water)
We all know what a water wave looks like. How does it work?Slide32
Waves
Caused by wind blowing on the ocean surface
Water molecule moves in a circle while the energy moves forward.
Observe an animation of wave motion.Slide33
Wave characteristics
Crest: highest point of the wave
Trough: lowest point of the wave
Wavelength: length between crests
Wave height: vertical distance from crest to troughSlide34
Wave characteristics
Wavelength determines depth of water disturbance: depth = 1/2 wavelength
Wave speed increases with wavelengthSlide35
Wave height
3 factors:
Wind speed
Wind duration
Fetch – expanse of water the wind blows across
More = larger waves (think hurricanes)Slide36
Breaking waves
Waves spilling over, like when they hit a shore. Called breakers.
1. wave approaches the shore, water is more shallow
2. friction with bottom slows the wave
3. waves from behind catch up, decreasing wavelength. This increases wave height.
4. wave is too tall and spills over.Slide37
Breaking wavesSlide38
Tides
Tides: periodic rise and fall of sea level
High tide & low tide
Any experience with this?Slide39
Tides
Tidal range: difference between water levels of high and low tide
Tidal range can change based on topography and latitude
Bay of Fundy near
Novia
Scotia has the greatest tidal range, about 15mSlide40Slide41
Tides
Generally, a daily cycle of high and low tides takes 24hrs and 50min
What causes tides?Slide42
Cause of Tides
The moon
NOVA | What Causes the Tides?Slide43
Cause of tides
The sun also plays a role
Spring tides: larger tidal ranges that occur when the sun and moon align.
Neap tides: lower tidal ranges that occur when the sun and moon’s gravitational forces are acting against one anotherSlide44
Cause of tidesSlide45
Tides
Are a result of gravitational interactions between the earth, moon, and sun.Slide46
Ocean currents
Remember water masses?
The movement of water masses is an example of an ocean current.
Density current: ocean current that is caused by differences in temp and salinity.
Density currents move slowly in deep ocean waters.Slide47
currents
Surface currents: currents near the surface that are caused by wind.
Can move as fast as 100km/day! Think about getting caught in that current.
Follow global wind patterns.Slide48
Gyres
Winds and landmasses cause ocean currents to form closed loops called gyres.
Clockwise loops in the N. hemisphere. Counterclockwise in the S. hemisphere. Why?Slide49
Gyres
Gyres are one way the earth looks to balance heat distribution.
Warm water flows toward the poles, where it cools, and then moves back toward the equator.
Cold water moves slowly. Slide50
How do you think the currents can affect weather?Slide51
Upwelling
Currents flow horizontally
Upwelling is the upward (vertical) motion of water.
Occur on the western coasts of continents where surface currents pull surface waters to the west.
Cold, nutrient rich water replaces the surface water.Slide52
Upwelling
Cold water is nutrient rich which is good for marine life. Some of the world’s best fishing areas are of the coasts of Peru and California.Slide53
In sum..
Wave characteristics and motion
Tides and their causes.
Currents – surface and density
Upwelling