AATCC TM135-2018t Dimensional Changes of Fabrics
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AATCC TM135-2018t Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM150-2018t Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC TM135, 150 Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
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01
AATCC TM135-2018t Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering AATCC TM150-2018t Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laundering AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
02
Dimensional Change a generic term for changes in the length or width of a fabric or garment specimen subjected to specified conditions. The change is usually expressed as a percentage of the initial dimension of the specimen. AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
03
Laundering A process intended to remove soils and/or stains by treatment (washing) with aqueous detergent solution and normally including rinsing, extraction and drying. AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
04
Why Dimensional Change Matters Care labels 16 CFR 423
https://www.ftc.gov/node/119456 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
https://www.ftc.gov/node/119456 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
05
Why Dimensional Change Matters Customer satisfaction
Impacts other fabric/garment properties AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Impacts other fabric/garment properties AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
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Can be Combined with Other Methods Appearance AATCC TM88B AATCC TM88C AATCC TM124 AATCC TM143 Skew/Twist AATCC TM179 AATCC TM207
Stain Release AATCC TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Stain Release AATCC TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
07
Scope TM135
Flat fabrics
Individual panels of sewn items
TM150
Garments
Circular knits used in tubular form AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Flat fabrics
Individual panels of sewn items
TM150
Garments
Circular knits used in tubular form AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
08
Materials Indelible marking pen
Ruler or shrinkage scale
Conditioning facilities
Flat surface for marking and measuring AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Ruler or shrinkage scale
Conditioning facilities
Flat surface for marking and measuring AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
09
Shrinkage Scale Use with 10-in or 18-in benchmarks
Measures % change directly
Be sure to use the correct side of the scale! AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Measures % change directly
Be sure to use the correct side of the scale! AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
10
Test Specimens: TM135 3 specimens
Option 1: 380 380 mm (15 15 in)
Option 2: 610 610 mm (24 24 in)
Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long
Different warp & fill yarns
Pink edges as needed
May also be used for TM124, TM179, TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Option 1: 380 380 mm (15 15 in)
Option 2: 610 610 mm (24 24 in)
Narrow fabrics: 380 mm (15 in) long
Different warp & fill yarns
Pink edges as needed
May also be used for TM124, TM179, TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
11
Test Specimens: TM150 Garment
3 specimens (garments) when possible
May also be used for TM143, TM179, TM207, TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
3 specimens (garments) when possible
May also be used for TM143, TM179, TM207, TM130 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
12
Conditioning ASTM D1776
Flat, single layer, no tension or
On hanger
Air circulation through and around
21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F)
65% ±5% relative humidity (RH) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Flat, single layer, no tension or
On hanger
Air circulation through and around
21°C ±2°C (70°F ±4°F)
65% ±5% relative humidity (RH) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
13
Benchmarks: TM135 Mark 250- or 460-mm:
W1
W2
W3
For ruler:
Measure to nearest mm, ⅛ in., or ⅟10 in.
Calculate average L
Calculate average W
Measurement A (original) L1
L2
L3 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
W1
W2
W3
For ruler:
Measure to nearest mm, ⅛ in., or ⅟10 in.
Calculate average L
Calculate average W
Measurement A (original) L1
L2
L3 AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
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25-125 mm Benchmarks: TM135 (narrow) Use full width
Mark 250-mm:
L1
L2 (if 25-125 mm wide)
Mark W1 (optional)
Measure
Calculate average L
Calculate average W
Measurement A (original) 380 mm < 25 mm AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Mark 250-mm:
L1
L2 (if 25-125 mm wide)
Mark W1 (optional)
Measure
Calculate average L
Calculate average W
Measurement A (original) 380 mm < 25 mm AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
15
Benchmarks: TM150 ≥ 25 mm (1 in) from edges and seams Mark 250- or 460-mm:
W1 L1
W2 L2
W3 L3
Measure
Measurement A (original) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
W1 L1
W2 L2
W3 L3
Measure
Measurement A (original) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
16
Benchmarks: TM150 Benchmarks across panels may be used
Mark & report measurement points Mark and measure:
Front length
Front width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Mark & report measurement points Mark and measure:
Front length
Front width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
17
Laundering Materials Automatic washer
Tumble dryer or drying facilities
Detergent
Ballast AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Tumble dryer or drying facilities
Detergent
Ballast AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
18
https://www.aatcc.org/testing/laundering/ AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2018, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
19
Standard Washing Conditions Alternate conditions listed in LP1
(note as a modification of the test method) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
(note as a modification of the test method) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
20
1993 AATCC Standard Reference Detergent Powder detergent
For “traditional” top-loading washers
66 g per load AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
For “traditional” top-loading washers
66 g per load AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
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Standard Reference Detergent No phosphates
No bleach, enzymes, colors, fragrances
Consistency for valid comparison of test results
With or without optical brightener www.aatcc.org/test/detergent www.aatcc.org/test/washers/#detergent AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
No bleach, enzymes, colors, fragrances
Consistency for valid comparison of test results
With or without optical brightener www.aatcc.org/test/detergent www.aatcc.org/test/washers/#detergent AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
22
Laundering Ballast 92 92 cm (36 36 in) hemmed white sheets
Type 1: 100% cotton
Type 3: 50% polyester/ 50% cotton AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Type 1: 100% cotton
Type 3: 50% polyester/ 50% cotton AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
23
Washing Procedure Select machine cycle
Select wash temperature
Add water
Add detergent
Add specimens and enough ballast to make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load
Start wash cycle AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Select wash temperature
Add water
Add detergent
Add specimens and enough ballast to make 1.8-kg (4-lb) load
Start wash cycle AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
24
Standard Drying Conditions (A) Tumble
i. Cotton Sturdy
ii. Delicate
iii. Permanent Press
(B) Line
(C) Drip
(D) Screen AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
i. Cotton Sturdy
ii. Delicate
iii. Permanent Press
(B) Line
(C) Drip
(D) Screen AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
25
Tumble Dry (A) Remove from wash immediately after final spin
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer
Set exhaust temperature
Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max.
Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max.
Dry completely
Remove immediately AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Place full load (specimens and ballast) in dryer
Set exhaust temperature
Normal or Perm Press: 68°C (155°F) max.
Delicate: 60°C (140°F) max.
Dry completely
Remove immediately AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
26
Line Dry (B) Remove from wash immediately after final spin
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric length in vertical direction
TM150: Hang specimens on hangers
Dry in still air at room temperature
≤ 26°C (78°F)
Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
TM135: Hang specimens by two corners, fabric length in vertical direction
TM150: Hang specimens on hangers
Dry in still air at room temperature
≤ 26°C (78°F)
Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
27
Line Dry (B) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
28
Line Dry (B) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
29
Drip Dry (C) Remove from wash immediately after final rinse (soaking wet, before final spin)
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Hang as for line dry AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Hang as for line dry AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
30
Screen Dry (D) Remove from wash immediately after final spin
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Spread on horizontal surface allowing air movement on all sides
Smooth without distorting or stretching
Dry in still air at room temperature
≤ 26°C (78°F)
Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Untangle as needed, avoiding distortion
Spread on horizontal surface allowing air movement on all sides
Smooth without distorting or stretching
Dry in still air at room temperature
≤ 26°C (78°F)
Do not blow air directly on specimens AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
31
Screen Dry (D) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
32
Number of Laundering Cycles “Pass” after 1 cycle: continue to 3 cycles
“Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test
or
As agreed between buyer and seller AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
“Fail” after 1 cycle: stop test
or
As agreed between buyer and seller AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
33
Ironing If specimens would always be ironed by a consumer, iron before measuring
Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Minimal pressure to remove wrinkles AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
34
Conditioning Repeat conditioning procedure after final dry or iron AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
35
Final Measurement: Shrinkage Scale Read % change directly from scale
Calculate average change in length
Calculate average change in width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Calculate average change in length
Calculate average change in width AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
36
Final Measurement: Ruler Measure between marked points
Same surface
Same measurement device
For TM135:
Calculate average length measurement
Calculate average width measurement
Measurement B (after laundering) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Same surface
Same measurement device
For TM135:
Calculate average length measurement
Calculate average width measurement
Measurement B (after laundering) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
37
Calculation: Benchmarks Calculate length and width change separately
nearest 0.1% for laundering
nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average Dimensional Change = B-A 100%
A
A = initial measurement (avg for TM135)
B = final measurement (avg for TM135) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
nearest 0.1% for laundering
nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average Dimensional Change = B-A 100%
A
A = initial measurement (avg for TM135)
B = final measurement (avg for TM135) AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
38
Calculation: Garments Calculate change for each garment location
nearest 0.1% for laundering
nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average length measurements, if applicable
Average width measurements, if applicable AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
nearest 0.1% for laundering
nearest 0.2% for drycleaning
Average length measurements, if applicable
Average width measurements, if applicable AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
39
Interpretation Negative dimensional change: shrinkage
Positive dimensional change: growth -10% L
-10% W +10% L
+10% W -10% L
+10% W AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Positive dimensional change: growth -10% L
-10% W +10% L
+10% W -10% L
+10% W AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
40
Report Sample description
Test method (including year)
Ballast (Type 1 or 3)
Detergent (with out without brightener)
Number of laundering cycles (usually 3)
Laundering conditions
Distortion/wrinkling before laundering
Iron setting, if used
Modification(s) of test method AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Test method (including year)
Ballast (Type 1 or 3)
Detergent (with out without brightener)
Number of laundering cycles (usually 3)
Laundering conditions
Distortion/wrinkling before laundering
Iron setting, if used
Modification(s) of test method AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
41
Report For each direction or garment location:
Direction/location
Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1%
Number of measurements in average
Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens
Original benchmark distance AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Direction/location
Average dimensional change to nearest 0.1%
Number of measurements in average
Usually 9: 3 sets of benchmarks × 3 specimens
Original benchmark distance AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
42
Questions? Erika Simmons Technical Director, AATCC simmonse@aatcc.org
Chair RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>
Chair RA42, Dimensional Changes Test Methods AATCC TM135, 150 © Copyright 2020, American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists<br>