ADAPTING INDIGENOUS TO MAXIMISE OPPORTUNITIES FOR
Description: ADAPTING INDIGENOUS TO MAXIMISE OPPORTUNITIES FOR LOCAL COMMUNITIES (A case study of indigenous Kala Cotton) Ms. Rakhi Wahee Pratap National Institute of Fashion Technology - Hyderabad (India) Sustainability and Ethical issues are
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slide1. ADAPTING INDIGENOUS TO MAXIMISE OPPORTUNITIES FOR LOCAL COMMUNITIES
(A case study of indigenous Kala Cotton)
Ms. Rakhi Wahee Pratap
National Institute of Fashion Technology - Hyderabad (India) “Sustainability and Ethical issues” are definitely the need of the hour, but for an effective outcome, it should disseminate among consumers instead of being limited to the academic arena. A focused perspective which creates opportunities among NGOs, weavers, educational institutions, and trend setters can suggests sustainable pathways.
A case study of Kala Cotton (a sustainable indigenous cotton variety) which was redundant during colonial regime in India, has been able to re gain commercial opportunities. Its unique properties befitted the present requirement of sustainable production practices and resource conservation. It effectively communicated the suitability of the fabric as a sustainable product for future fashion. ABSTRACT OBJECTIVE To understand the importance of indigenous resources and skills to strengthen sustainability.
To create commercial opportunities by communicating with Global consumers and local producers to suggest opportunities. After a devastating earthquake in Kutch (Gujarat), a local value chain was needed to cushion the farmers and weavers from the market fluctuation. Indigenous raw material was required, which is the most water and energy efficient across the value chain to preserve agriculture and artisan livelihood. Kala cotton is among a few varieties of genetically pure cotton grown in India 5000 years back. In 2005 resurgence of Kala Cotton was taken up by an NGO, “KHAMIR” along with local bodies to regulate farmers and weavers. The indigenous variety of cotton has unique features befitting as a sustainable fashion fabric for the future case study method reflects
various aspects in detail. Khamir Weaver
Hand woven and Natural dyed throw and stole
Educating the farmers and weavers to value the richness of indigenous fiber and need for sustainable production.
Short staple fiber was difficult to spin & weave, therefore skilled weavers conducted training workshops. Special design schools were set up to educate weavers. Kala is not a thirsty crop hence it provides sustainable solution to not just the farmer but also the weavers. It preserved traditional weaves of Kutch by reviving indigenous weaving skills. The revival of Kala has inherent attributes and provenance to enrich India’s textile heritage. Its low carbon footprint production method, makes it an eco friendly fabric. The fabric has also strengthen tribal connect and influenced urban migration by providing local opportunities in each segment of supply chain. A strategic communication and plan has facilitated availability of this fabric into slow fashion markets providing ethical options for the consumers as well. Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), pp.259-265.
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys - Routledge. Choice Reviews Online, 52(04 -), pp.52-1786-52-1786.
Mathur, A. ”Woven Wonder –The Tradition of Indian Textile “. N. Delhi, India. Rupa & Co Pvt. Ltd., p.Pg.19.
Meena, M. and Uzramma, B. (2017). “A Frayed History - The Journey of Cotton in India”, New Delhi: Oxford University Publication.
Zarley Watson, M. and Yan, R. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2), pp.141-159. Author would like to acknowledge Ghatith Bhai and Paresh Bhai (Khamir, the NGO) to share valuable inputs for the case study. Special thanks to the local weavers Shyamji Bhai Vankar and Ram ji bhai to interpret weaver's involvement and perspective.
Author’s Contact detail: rakhi.pratap@nift.ac.in CONCLUSION REFERENCES INTRODUCTION COMMERCIAL CONNECT GOODNESS OF INDIGENOUS COTTON CHALLENGES FACED BY KHAMIR Due to low tensile strength of the fiber, loom settings was done
to handle the fabric . This results into slow production thus higher
wages are given to the weavers.
Local spinning and dyeing units created employment and
discouraged urban migration. Academic alliance to envisage design attributes Accessible to slow fashion markets Adapting into international styles for global acceptance Similar interventions by other NGOs (TULA) Most preferable Khadi for leading lables. Global awareness by Alison Welsh (M M University) ACKNOWLEDGMENT Rain Fed Crop
(Low Water Intake Less Pesticides
& Fertilizers
Required Reusable Seeds
(Economical) High Dye Intake
Due to Air
Permeability Hand Spinning
Improves
Dye Intake<br>
(A case study of indigenous Kala Cotton)
Ms. Rakhi Wahee Pratap
National Institute of Fashion Technology - Hyderabad (India) “Sustainability and Ethical issues” are definitely the need of the hour, but for an effective outcome, it should disseminate among consumers instead of being limited to the academic arena. A focused perspective which creates opportunities among NGOs, weavers, educational institutions, and trend setters can suggests sustainable pathways.
A case study of Kala Cotton (a sustainable indigenous cotton variety) which was redundant during colonial regime in India, has been able to re gain commercial opportunities. Its unique properties befitted the present requirement of sustainable production practices and resource conservation. It effectively communicated the suitability of the fabric as a sustainable product for future fashion. ABSTRACT OBJECTIVE To understand the importance of indigenous resources and skills to strengthen sustainability.
To create commercial opportunities by communicating with Global consumers and local producers to suggest opportunities. After a devastating earthquake in Kutch (Gujarat), a local value chain was needed to cushion the farmers and weavers from the market fluctuation. Indigenous raw material was required, which is the most water and energy efficient across the value chain to preserve agriculture and artisan livelihood. Kala cotton is among a few varieties of genetically pure cotton grown in India 5000 years back. In 2005 resurgence of Kala Cotton was taken up by an NGO, “KHAMIR” along with local bodies to regulate farmers and weavers. The indigenous variety of cotton has unique features befitting as a sustainable fashion fabric for the future case study method reflects
various aspects in detail. Khamir Weaver
Hand woven and Natural dyed throw and stole
Educating the farmers and weavers to value the richness of indigenous fiber and need for sustainable production.
Short staple fiber was difficult to spin & weave, therefore skilled weavers conducted training workshops. Special design schools were set up to educate weavers. Kala is not a thirsty crop hence it provides sustainable solution to not just the farmer but also the weavers. It preserved traditional weaves of Kutch by reviving indigenous weaving skills. The revival of Kala has inherent attributes and provenance to enrich India’s textile heritage. Its low carbon footprint production method, makes it an eco friendly fabric. The fabric has also strengthen tribal connect and influenced urban migration by providing local opportunities in each segment of supply chain. A strategic communication and plan has facilitated availability of this fabric into slow fashion markets providing ethical options for the consumers as well. Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow Fashion: An Invitation for Systems Change. Fashion Practice, 2(2), pp.259-265.
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys - Routledge. Choice Reviews Online, 52(04 -), pp.52-1786-52-1786.
Mathur, A. ”Woven Wonder –The Tradition of Indian Textile “. N. Delhi, India. Rupa & Co Pvt. Ltd., p.Pg.19.
Meena, M. and Uzramma, B. (2017). “A Frayed History - The Journey of Cotton in India”, New Delhi: Oxford University Publication.
Zarley Watson, M. and Yan, R. (2013). An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 17(2), pp.141-159. Author would like to acknowledge Ghatith Bhai and Paresh Bhai (Khamir, the NGO) to share valuable inputs for the case study. Special thanks to the local weavers Shyamji Bhai Vankar and Ram ji bhai to interpret weaver's involvement and perspective.
Author’s Contact detail: rakhi.pratap@nift.ac.in CONCLUSION REFERENCES INTRODUCTION COMMERCIAL CONNECT GOODNESS OF INDIGENOUS COTTON CHALLENGES FACED BY KHAMIR Due to low tensile strength of the fiber, loom settings was done
to handle the fabric . This results into slow production thus higher
wages are given to the weavers.
Local spinning and dyeing units created employment and
discouraged urban migration. Academic alliance to envisage design attributes Accessible to slow fashion markets Adapting into international styles for global acceptance Similar interventions by other NGOs (TULA) Most preferable Khadi for leading lables. Global awareness by Alison Welsh (M M University) ACKNOWLEDGMENT Rain Fed Crop
(Low Water Intake Less Pesticides
& Fertilizers
Required Reusable Seeds
(Economical) High Dye Intake
Due to Air
Permeability Hand Spinning
Improves
Dye Intake<br>