Fabric Finishes Chapter 13 - PowerPoint Presentation

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Fabric Finishes

Chapter 13

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Finishing Processes

Finish = special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance

Finishes added to reduce undesirable characteristics

Some add a design like a stripe or print

Some add soft, firm or smoother han

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Color & Design Finishes

Gray goods = fabric first off the loom lacks color

Cleaned to remove oils, resins, gums or soil

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Dyeing Textiles

Dyes are compounds that penetrate and color fibers

Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish and minerals

Synthetic developed by accident in 1856

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Today computers develop exact formulas for dyeing

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5 methods:

Stock dyeing=

natural fibers dyed before they are spun into yarns

Permits spinning of tweed and multicolored yarns

Solution dyeing=manufactured fibers are produced and dye is put in liquid solution and run through spinnerets (permanent part)

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Yarn dyeing

= yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting

Used for plaids, checks and stripes

Piece dying

=dyed after weaving or knittingGarment dyeing =fabric cut and sewn into finished product and then entire garment is dyed

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Colorfastness

Colorfast = fabric color won’t change

Most dyes aren’t colorfast to everything

Always read the label

Some are supposed to loose color like denim jeans and madras (woven fabric that bleeds)

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Printing Textiles

Printing = color is transferred to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern

Some printing techniques are very old and still used by some craftsmen

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4 common printing methods

1 = screen printing

Metal mesh screens stretched on frames

Each screen prepared with color and design

2 = roller printingRoller chemically etched with pattern part for a particular colorRaised sections of roller pick up desired color

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3 = rotary screen printing

Faster

Produces 3500 yards per hour

Metal foil, less costly

4 = heat-transfer printingPaper pattern for design with heat sensitive dyesDesign on reverse side

Transferred to fabric when heat applied

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Texture & Performance Finishes

Texture finishes

Type of finish that improves surface texture and hand

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Calendering

Fabric passes between 2 heated rollers that smooth fabric and improve luster

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Glazing

Resin applied during

calendering

to produce high polish or glaze

Chintz is a glazed fabric

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Embossing

Fabric is given a raised design on surface

Cire

` (

suh-RAY)Super-glossy finish is obtained by applying waxSometimes used in lightweight jackets

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Moire

` (mwah

-RAY)

Watered or wavy pattern is obtained by

calendering 2 layers of fabric slightly off grainUsed for evening wear

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Napping

Rotating wire brushes raise short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft and fuzzy surface called NAP

Flannel is napped

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Stone washing and acid washing

Pumice stones sometimes dampened with an oxidizing bleach to laundry process

Provide abrasion that makes denim look worn and partially faded

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Mercerization

Gives cotton added luster, strength,

drapability

Improves fiber’s affinity for dye

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Sizing

Starches or resins are added to fabric for extra body

Usually only a temporary finish

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Performance Finishes

Antibacterial/antiseptic

Finish checks the growth of bacteria, fungi (mold and mildew)

Germs that cause odor, disease and

infectin are reduced or even eliminatedBrand names are Sanitized and Pacificate

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Antistatic

Finish reduces fabric dryness that causes static electricity

Fabrics don’t cling

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Crease-resistant

CRF – resin finish that helps fabrics resist wrinkling

Applied to fabrics made from fibers that wrinkling easily including cotton, rayon and flax

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Durable press

Maintain a pressed appearance despite repeated washings and

wearings

Through heat setting resin curing or an ammonia process fabric fibers are stabilized

100% cotton is treated this way

“

Wrinlke

free, wrinkle resistant, no iron”

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Flame-resistant and flame retardant

Finishes reduce flaming and

burinng

in fabrics exposed to flame or high heat

Used in children’s sleepwearSpecial care may be needed to maintain finish

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Mothproof

Repel moths and other fiber eating insects

Wool fibers

Added when dye is added

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Shrinkage control

Don’t guarantee no shrinkage

But will be minimal even after laundering

“

Sanforized” assures that it won’t shrink more than 1%

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Soil release

Dirt and stains remove more easily

Durable through 40 – 50 washings

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Water and stain repellent

Help fabric repel water and oil based stains

Coated with chemical that resists water and other liquids

Drops remain on surface- can get wet though

May have to be redone if dry cleaned

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Waterproof

Finishes keep fabric and wearer dry

Coated or treated so no water penetrates

May be uncomfortable to wear but newer ones are more breathable (

GorTex)

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Summary

Finishes are applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture, and performance

Some finishes are permanent and some are temporary

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Some finishes add color or designs to

fabirs or fabrics

Texture finishes change a fabric’s look, feel and hand

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Performance finishes make fabrics easier to care for and more useful

Some finishes can be diminished or destroyed by improper fabric care

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