Chapter 13 1 Finishing Processes Finish special treatments applied to improve a fabrics appearance texture or performance Finishes added to reduce undesirable characteristics Some add a design like a stripe or print ID: 460805
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Fabric Finishes
Chapter 13
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Finishing Processes
Finish = special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture or performance
Finishes added to reduce undesirable characteristics
Some add a design like a stripe or print
Some add soft, firm or smoother han
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Color & Design Finishes
Gray goods = fabric first off the loom lacks color
Cleaned to remove oils, resins, gums or soil
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Dyeing Textiles
Dyes are compounds that penetrate and color fibers
Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish and minerals
Synthetic developed by accident in 1856
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Today computers develop exact formulas for dyeing
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5 methods:
Stock dyeing=
natural fibers dyed before they are spun into yarns
Permits spinning of tweed and multicolored yarns
Solution dyeing=manufactured fibers are produced and dye is put in liquid solution and run through spinnerets (permanent part)
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Yarn dyeing
= yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting
Used for plaids, checks and stripes
Piece dying
=dyed after weaving or knittingGarment dyeing =fabric cut and sewn into finished product and then entire garment is dyed
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Colorfastness
Colorfast = fabric color won’t change
Most dyes aren’t colorfast to everything
Always read the label
Some are supposed to loose color like denim jeans and madras (woven fabric that bleeds)
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Printing Textiles
Printing = color is transferred to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern
Some printing techniques are very old and still used by some craftsmen
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4 common printing methods
1 = screen printing
Metal mesh screens stretched on frames
Each screen prepared with color and design
2 = roller printingRoller chemically etched with pattern part for a particular colorRaised sections of roller pick up desired color
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3 = rotary screen printing
Faster
Produces 3500 yards per hour
Metal foil, less costly
4 = heat-transfer printingPaper pattern for design with heat sensitive dyesDesign on reverse side
Transferred to fabric when heat applied
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Texture & Performance Finishes
Texture finishes
Type of finish that improves surface texture and hand
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Calendering
Fabric passes between 2 heated rollers that smooth fabric and improve luster
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Glazing
Resin applied during
calendering
to produce high polish or glaze
Chintz is a glazed fabric
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Embossing
Fabric is given a raised design on surface
Cire
` (
suh-RAY)Super-glossy finish is obtained by applying waxSometimes used in lightweight jackets
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Moire
` (mwah
-RAY)
Watered or wavy pattern is obtained by
calendering 2 layers of fabric slightly off grainUsed for evening wear
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Napping
Rotating wire brushes raise short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft and fuzzy surface called NAP
Flannel is napped
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Stone washing and acid washing
Pumice stones sometimes dampened with an oxidizing bleach to laundry process
Provide abrasion that makes denim look worn and partially faded
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Mercerization
Gives cotton added luster, strength,
drapability
Improves fiber’s affinity for dye
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Sizing
Starches or resins are added to fabric for extra body
Usually only a temporary finish
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Performance Finishes
Antibacterial/antiseptic
Finish checks the growth of bacteria, fungi (mold and mildew)
Germs that cause odor, disease and
infectin are reduced or even eliminatedBrand names are Sanitized and Pacificate
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Antistatic
Finish reduces fabric dryness that causes static electricity
Fabrics don’t cling
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Crease-resistant
CRF – resin finish that helps fabrics resist wrinkling
Applied to fabrics made from fibers that wrinkling easily including cotton, rayon and flax
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Durable press
Maintain a pressed appearance despite repeated washings and
wearings
Through heat setting resin curing or an ammonia process fabric fibers are stabilized
100% cotton is treated this way
“
Wrinlke
free, wrinkle resistant, no iron”
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Flame-resistant and flame retardant
Finishes reduce flaming and
burinng
in fabrics exposed to flame or high heat
Used in children’s sleepwearSpecial care may be needed to maintain finish
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Mothproof
Repel moths and other fiber eating insects
Wool fibers
Added when dye is added
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Shrinkage control
Don’t guarantee no shrinkage
But will be minimal even after laundering
“
Sanforized” assures that it won’t shrink more than 1%
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Soil release
Dirt and stains remove more easily
Durable through 40 – 50 washings
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Water and stain repellent
Help fabric repel water and oil based stains
Coated with chemical that resists water and other liquids
Drops remain on surface- can get wet though
May have to be redone if dry cleaned
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Waterproof
Finishes keep fabric and wearer dry
Coated or treated so no water penetrates
May be uncomfortable to wear but newer ones are more breathable (
GorTex)
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Summary
Finishes are applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture, and performance
Some finishes are permanent and some are temporary
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Some finishes add color or designs to
fabirs or fabrics
Texture finishes change a fabric’s look, feel and hand
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Performance finishes make fabrics easier to care for and more useful
Some finishes can be diminished or destroyed by improper fabric care
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