Chapter 4 Making Artisan Bread Making Artisan

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Chapter 4 Making Artisan Bread Making Artisan

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Chapter 4 Making Artisan Bread Making Artisan Bread LEARNING OBJECTIVES Be able to execute bread formulas properly by understanding each step of the bread baking process Develop an understanding of and be able to calculate bakers

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Chapter 4 Making Artisan Bread

Making Artisan BreadLEARNING OBJECTIVES Be able to execute bread formulas properly by understanding each step of the bread baking process
Develop an understanding of and be able to calculate baker’s percentage
Define and be able to calculate desired dough temperature
Understand the factors that contribute to the dough’s final temperature
Explain each step of the bread baking process
Understand the three different mixing methods and how each one effects bread dough

Explain the different stages of mixing and how they contribute to dough development
Be able to explain the effects of fermentation
Understand the importance of folding dough
Be able to interpret how dough transforms into a finished loaf throughout baking
Describe the staling process and how to delay/prevent staling Making Artisan BreadLEARNING OBJECTIVES

Baker’s Percentage When used properly, baker’s percentage:
consistency in production
helps calculate the absorption rate of the flour
Aids in increasing or decreasing formula yields
creates ease in comparing formulas
Gives the ability to check a formula for balance and any potential defects

Baker’s Percentage (cont.) Baker’s Percentage is always based on the total weight of the flour for a formula:
Flour = 100%
All of the other ingredients’ quantities according to the corresponding formula are calculated in relation to the flour, and are each assigned a percentage of their own
ingredient = x _ = x%
flour 100
The total of percentages will add up to over 100%
Calculated with weight measurements, not volume
Ingredients must be in the same unit of measurement

Calculating Baker’s Percentage: Example Flour 1000 g = 100%
Water 500 g
Salt 50 g
Yeast 10 g
Using Division:
500 g (water) / 1000 g (flour) = 0.50 or 50%
Using Cross Multiplication:
500 g (water) x 100 = 50,000 / 1000 (flour) = 0.50 or 50%

Calculating Baker’s Percentage: Example If the same calculations are applied to the entire formula, the completed recipe would read as such:

Flour 1000 g 100%
Water 500 g 50%
Salt 50 g 5%
Yeast 10 g 1%
Total 1560 g 156%

Using Baker’s Percentage To calculate ingredient amounts if changing the yield of a formula:

Example 1: A baker wanted to increase the recipe above to yield 8,500 g

1. Using Division:
100 (flour %) = 0.64 x 8,500 g (desired yield) = 5,448 g
156 (total %)

2. Using Cross Multiplication:
100 (flour %) x 8,500 g (desired yield) = 850,000 g
156 (total %)
= 5,448 g

If the same calculations are applied to the entire formula, the completed recipe would read as such:
Flour 5,448 g 100%
Water 2,724 g 50%
Salt 273 g 5%
Yeast 55 g 1%
Total 8,500 g 156% Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

To calculate preferment quantities if adding one to a formula is desired:

Example 2: a baker wants to add a preferment to the above dough using 20% of the weight of the flour of the above recipe. The preferment will also contain 64% water and 1% yeast of the total flour in the preferment.

The amount of flour for the preferment must be calculated by multiplying the quantity of flour by 20%:
5,448 g (flour weight) x 20% = 1,090 g Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

2. The amounts for the water and yeast must be determined by multiplying the respective percentages of both the water and yeast by the flour amount:
water for preferment: 1,090 g x 64% = 698 g
yeast: for preferment 1,090 g x 1% = 11 g

Therefore, the finished preferment formula would read as such:
Flour 1,091 g
Water 698 g
Yeast 11 g
Total: 1,800 g Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

3. Adjust the final recipe by subtracting the initial amount of each ingredient that is also used in the preferment by their quantities that will be in the preferment itself:

Flour: 5,448 g (original formula) – 1,091 (preferment) = 4,357 g (adjusted formula)
Water: 2,274 g (original formula) – 698 g (preferment) = 1,576 g (adjusted formula)
Yeast: 55 g (original formula – 11 g (preferment) =
44 g (adjusted formula) Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

The formula for the final dough will result in:

Flour 4,357 g 100%
Water 1,576 g 50%
Salt 273 g 5%
Yeast 44 g 1%
Total: 6,250 g 156% Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

By knowing the ingredient quantities for any preferment, one is able to calculate the baker’s percentage of the preferment ingredients in relation to the amount of flour in the final dough:

Preferment:
Flour 1,091 g 25%
Water 698 g 16%
Yeast 11 g 0.01%
Dough:
Flour 4,357 g 100%
Water 1,576 g 50%
Salt 273 g 5%
Yeast 44 g 1%
Preferment 1,800 g 41%
Total: 8,500 g 191% Using Baker’s Percentage (cont.)

Desired Dough Temperature (DDT) the temperature of the finished dough will directly affect the rate of fermentation
Vital to the mixing process:
Ideal DDT for proper fermentation = 74-82 degrees F
Lower than 74 degrees F: slow fermentation, possibly affecting production times
Higher than 82 degrees F: quicker fermentation of dough, altering the strength and flavor of it

Desired Dough Temperate The Five Factors 1.Temperature of the room – may be adjusted, but must be taken into consideration as such when mixing

2.Temperature of the flour – usually stored at room temperature

3.Temperature of the water – only factor that is fully controlled by the baker

4.Mixer friction (heat generated from the mixing process) – set number; varies from mixer to mixer
The value of mixer friction will NOT be considered an actual temperature (not listed as Celsius or Fahrenheit); it indicates the logged increase in temperature during mixing

5. Temperature of the preferment (if applicable) – can be controlled somewhat (by the water and flour temperature when it is mixed, it’s storage temperature), but it’s temperature at the time when mixing can’t be adjusted

Using DDT to calculate Water Temperature Example 1: Calculating Water Temperature Without a Preferment
DDT = 76 F
Room Temperature = 68 F
Flour Temperature = 68 F
Mixer Friction = 8
Calculate the base temperature: multiply DDT by the number of factors affecting the final temperature –
76 F x 3 = 226 F (base temperature)
2. Determine the water temperature: the known temperatures are subtracted from the base temperature –
226 F – (68+68+8) = 82 F (water temperature)

Using DDT to calculate Water Temperature Example 2: Calculating Water Temperature Using a Preferment
DDT = 77 F
Room Temperature = 65 F
Flour Temperature = 65 F
Preferment Temperature = 69 F
Mixer Friction = 10

1. Calculate the base temperature: multiply DDT by the number of factors affecting the final temperature –
77 F x 4 = 308 F

2. Determine the water temperature: the known temperatures are subtracted from the base temperature -
308 F – (65+65+69+10) = 99 F (water temperature)

Calculating Mixer Friction Make an educated guess in regards to the water temperature used to hydrate the dough. (typically between 65 F and 80 F)
Once all of the other temperature factors have been recorded, the dough can be mixed.
Record the final dough temperature and subtract that from the water temperature – the difference equals the mixer friction

Final Dough Temperature – Water Temperature = Mixer Friction

The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking scaling
mixing
bulk fermentation
folding
dividing
preshaping

resting
shaping
final fermentation
scoring
baking
cooling

The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 1: Scaling consistency in measurements of ingredients lead to consistent products
Measurements should be in weight units
Each ingredients should be scaled out separately until mixing

Short mixing method – produces minimal gluten; ingredients are mixed slowly until some gluten is developed, and then the dough is left to rest to cease further gluten development
done by hand mixing or in mixer
doughs need longer fermentation time and requires 2-4 folds during that time frame
ideal dough consistency is soft and full of gas bubbles; better extensibility when folding
interior crumb of final loaf will be light and creamy
crumb structure: light, very open and irregular with low volume The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing

Improved Mixing Method – the middle ground between short and intense mixing; results in a dough that requires less fermentation and folding overall, and has more structure during shaping and baking
In the mixer: ingredients are combined on 1st speed, then the dough is mixed on 2nd speed to half gluten development
Dough can be slightly soft or slightly firmer, as long as it is extensible enough throughout folding
longer fermentation produces more pronounced flavors
finished loaf with have more substantial volume, a slightly tighter light and creamy crumb, and will have a variance and openness due to gas bubbles The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2:Mixing (cont.)

Intense Mixing Method - produces a very stiff, firm dough with full gluten development that is very strong and requires minimal fermentation
In the mixer: ingredients are incorporated on 1st speed until combined, and then the dough is mixed to maximum development on 2nd speed
fast and efficient mixing method, and the dough can be easily handled
crumb of the final loaf: very regulated and very tight structure with an even grain, very white appearance
final loaf will have excellent volume due to maximum gas retention because of the fully developed gluten structure The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2:Mixing (cont.)

Dough development
once the flour is hydrated by water during mixing, the formation of gluten development begins. There are different stages of dough development during mixing:
1. Pickup: the dough is just beginning to come together and begins to resemble a sticky mass
2. Clean Up Stage: the dough begins to pull away from the sides; this is the last point when hydration can be adjusted
3. Preliminary Development: the dough begins to form a fully homogenous mass and begin gluten development
4. Initial Development: the mixer speed is raised to continue gluten development
5. Final Development: the dough is fully homogenous and very elastic – this happens by maintaining the raised speed of initial development for as long as it takes to reach the desired result The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing (cont.)

Effects of Mixing
1. First time mixing on 1st speed: gluten is developed from water hydrating the proteins and starches contained in flour
2. Second time mixing on 2nd speed: organizes the developed gluten bonds and develops more structure by mimicking hand-kneading motions
3. Mixing introduces oxygen to the dough, thus resulting in oxidation – oxygen helps form stronger gluten bonds and aids to the crumb structure of the finish product The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing (cont.)

Factors Affecting Mixing Time
1 .Type of mixer
2. Batch size
3. Type and quality of flour
4. Absorption of water and hydration of the flour:
5. Incorporation of enrichments and inclusions The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing (cont.)

When to add enrichments and inclusions:
solid fats
small quantities (2-4%) are added at the beginning of mixing
larger quantities (5-15%) are added when the dough is developed halfway

liquid fat: added slowly at the beginning of mixing

sugar
small quantities (<12%) are added in the beginning of mixing
larger quantities (<19%) are added in several stages
high levels of sugar (20-30%) are added at the end of mixing, when gluten is almost fully developed The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing (cont.)

When to add enrichments and inclusions:
eggs: incorporated at the beginning of mixing

dry inclusions (i.e.: malt or milk powder): incorporated at the beginning of mixing time with the flour and water

solid inclusions are added once gluten is properly developed
includes any course ingredient that will not fully dissolve into the dough
added when mixer is turned on 1st speed and the dough is mixed just until the inclusions are incorporated The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 2: Mixing (cont.)

the dough ferments in one large mass directly out of the mixer; the natural sugars in the dough convert into alcohol and carbon dioxide
also known as the first fermentation, because the dough develops most of its final flavor and aromatic characteristics as it ferments in one mass
primary results = help the dough rise, develops optimal flavor, and increases shelf life
long bulk fermentation period is best preferred
(for production purposes) for a shorter bulk fermentation, a pre-ferment may be utilized The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 3: Bulk Fermentation

What is fermentation?
Fermentation - the breakdown of compound molecules in an organic substance under the effect of yeast or bacteria
how it developed in dough:
enzymes contained in yeast break down saccharose and maltose (complex sugars) in flour into simple sugars: glucose and fructose
glucose and fructose are then consumed by yeast and are converted into alcohol and carbon dioxide
two types of starches that are considered complex glucides: amylose and amylopectin
amylose is broken down to maltose by the enzyme amylase, maltose is then broken down to glucose by maltase:
amylose > maltose > glucose
amylopectin breaks down to dextrin by amylase, dextrin is then broken down into maltose, which is then degraded to glucose:
amylopectin > dextrin > maltose > glucose The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 3: Bulk Fermentation (cont.)

Effects of Fermentation
dough rises and gains volume due to the carbon dioxide produced during fermentation
dough becomes acidic, aiding to flavor and aroma development

Factors affecting Fermentation
temperature
quantity of yeast in dough
quantity of sugar and salt in dough
pH of the dough The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 3: Bulk Fermentation (cont.)

the act of gently stretching the dough to elongate it, then folding it into thirds expels some of the developed carbon dioxide and further develops the structure of the gluten
redistributes food supply for yeast
equalizes dough temperature
folding different kinds of dough:
lean dough: generally folded one or more times to improve structure and expel gas
enriched dough: some aren’t folded in order to prevent overdevelopment since the dough is extensively mixed
rye dough: generally not folded to prevent it from collapsing
doughs with typical hydration levels (<67%) should be treated carefully
doughs with high hydration levels should be handled more aggressively The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 4: Folding

dough is divided into desired portions
dividing dough can be done either by hand or mechanically
there must be precaution to not damage the dough’s gluten structure
doughs that contain much gas can be difficult to handle The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 5: Dividing

loose, gentle reforming of the dough that has been divided, allowing the dough to ferment briefly in close to its final shape
sough should contain proper levels of strength at this point
there is room for alterations if dough is not at the desired consistency:
lacking structural integrity: tighter preshape increases gluten strands
overly extensible: very loose preshape prevents further or excessive, agitated structure The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 6: Preshaping

a short period of time, usually 10-20 minutes, depending on the formula, where the gluten strands relax before the dough is shaped The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 7: Resting

the dough is given its final shape either by hand or by machine
shaping is done an a lightly floured surface – just enough flour to prevent the dough from sticking, but not enough to incorporate excess flough into the dough
dough should be minimally worked in order to achieve desired shape but avoid damaging the structure The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 8: Shaping

the shaped bread is left to ferment one additional time; additional carbon dioxide will form inside the shaped dough, giving the bread a final rise and creating additional volume for a light and airy texture
can be done at either room temperature or (ideally) in a proof box
different doughs require different fermentation times:
doughs shaped by machine: capable to withstand longer fermetnation times
tightly shaped doughs require longer fermentation
hand shaped doughs require less fermentation
to test if a dough is finished fermenting: lightly press a finger into the dough. If your mark retreats about halfway, it is ready for baking The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 9: Final Fermentation

the process of cutting the dough (with a razor blade, lame, knife, or scissors) just before baking
both decorative and practical – scores act as vents for steam to escape and the loaf maintain it’s even shape
highly hydrated/enriched dough do not require scoring
underproofed dough require deeper scores to better expand during baking
overproofed dough require shallow scores in order to prevent deflation from over expansion
scoring may be used to identify different loaves of bread
should be done with a sharp knife/blade to produce clean, consistent scores The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 10: Scoring

after being scored, the loaves are loaded into the oven
oven loading is done either manually or automatically
loaves must be allotted a proper amount of space in between one another to promote optimum heat circulation and result in ideal finished products The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking

Factors to consider when baking:
there is not universal oven temperature set for baking bread
larger pieces of dough will need longer baking time at a lower temperature
smaller pieces of dough bake at a higher temperature for a shorter amount of time
lean dough: 480°F/248°C in deck oven, or 450°F/232°C in rack oven
12 oz. baguette is usually baked for 20-23 minutes
rye dough: requires a higher oven temperature before loading, and once fully loaded the oven temperature should be lowered and loaves should bake with an open vent for 5 minutes
2.20 #/ 1 kg rye loaf is usually baked for 1 hour The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking (cont.)

steaming during baking creates moisture that adheres to the dough’s surface inside the hot oven
makes surface more extensible; combined with extensive pressure of gas, better volume of the loaf is developed
creates a thinner and crisper crust because it delays the process of exterior evaporation, which delays the formation of a crust
creates an exterior that is deep and glossy in color because a slight dilution of starches present on the dough’s surface is generated when steam is present The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking (cont.)

How the baking process works:
during the first 4-6 minutes of baking: oven spring occurs
yeast and enzyme activity are stimulated by the quick increase of temperature
Large amount of CO2 is developed as yeast continues to feed off available sugars ; this gas is retained by gluten structure and produces volume
Post oven spring, reactions can be monitored based on the bread’s temperature The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking (cont.)

122°F/50°C: starch granules start to swell and yeast starts to die

140°F/60°C: starch begins to gelatinize – a crust is in development
starch granules burst and release long chains of that form a complex gelatinous matrix

145°F/62°C: yeast cells die and end all yeast activity, but continued gas production still causes additional increases in volume

153°F/67°C: gelatinization of starches is complete – the loaf’s crust begins to form

165°F/73°C: loaf’s structure is fully set from gluten coagulating and solidifying protein chains

180°F/82°C: all enzymatic activity ends and no further chemical reactions occur in the dough

212°F/100°C: evaporation on the surface begins to create the final crust.
the final colorization of the crust happens at higher temperatures, when the sugars in the dough begin to caramelize (known as the Maillard reaction) The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking (cont.)

Determining doneness of a loaf:
duration of baking
finished loaf will sound hollow when tapped
properly baked loaves will lose 10-20% if its original weight after baking
the crust shouldn’t be too soft when the sides of the loaf are gently pressed
to prevent a soft and soggy crust once a loaf is fully baked, the loaf should be left to completely dry out before removing from the oven by ventilation The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 11: Baking (cont.)

bread must be properly cooled to set the final structure
cooling releases more moisture, thus the final product will lose more weight once fully cooled
pressure inside the loaf will equalize as it cools – gas is expelled from the bread and cool air will replace it
this process causes bread to shrink slightly
firm outer crust audibly cracks in places of the bread’s surface
aroma is distributed throughout the loaf – aroma from the crumb will diffuse into the crust The Twelve Steps of Bread Baking Step 12: Cooling

The Staling Process starts immediately after cooling and occurs in three ways:
crumb - crust beings to degrade mostly due to the migration of water

crust: loses its shine, developing a duller appearance; crispness becomes harder in dry weather and soggy is humid weather

aroma: more and more is lost as bread stales, the reduction of aromatic qualities throughout the loaf lowers the overall quality of the finished loaf itself

The Staling Process (cont.) Factors that affect staling:
breads that were made from a highly hydrated dough will stale more slowly
acidity of bread due to longer fermentation times during production reduces staling
if proper volume is maintained throughout baking, the final product will dry out less quickly
proper air circulation during cooling ensures ideal and maximum shelf life

The Staling Process (cont.) How to delay staling of bread loaves:
freezing final bread products
very low temperatures (-4 to -22 F) almost stops staling entirely
the more quickly frozen bread becomes after it is baked and cooled, the longer it can survive in the freezer
to defrost bread: 400°F/204°C oven (steam is recommended) for 4-5 minutes, then it is finishes defrosting at room temperature

Chapter 4 Making Artisan Bread Making Artisan

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