PPT-WAVES Causes Wind-capillary/wind waves

EarthquakesTsunamis Graviational attractionTides Wind waves move energy not matter Wind waves Growth Wind strength must be moving faster than waves Wind durationlonger creates larger waves. Waves. A . Wave. is a . rhythmic. . movement. that carries . energy. through matter or space.. In oceans, waves move through . seawater. Waves. Caused by. :. Wind. Earthquakes. Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun..  .  . . Waves. When directly generated and affected by local winds, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. After the wind ceases to blow, wind waves are called swells. More generally, a swell consists of wind generated waves that are not significantly affected by the local wind at that time. They have been created elsewhere or a long time ago. Wind waves on the ocean are called ocean waves. These wind waves can also have a negative effect, where on . :. Waves . *Refer to Chapter . 12 . in your Textbook . Learning Goals. : . I can label the anatomy of an ocean wave.. I can differentiate between the various types of waves.. Anatomy of a Wave. :. Crest. Dan Whitt. dw494@cam.ac.uk. D. B. Whitt and L. N. Thomas, 2015: Resonant Generation and Energetics of Wind-Forced Near-Inertial Motions in a Geostrophic Flow. . J. Phys. . Oceanogr. .. , 45, 181–208.. Equatorial ocean. A short course on:. Modeling IO processes and phenomena . INCOIS. Hyderabad, India. November 16−27, 2015. References. 1) (HIG . Notes). . McCreary, J.P., 1980: Modeling wind-driven ocean circulation. JIMAR 80-0029, HIG 80-3, Univ. of Hawaii, Honolulu, 64 pp. Andrew T. Myers, PhD, PE. Assistant Professor of Civil and Environmental Engineering. Northeastern University. atm@neu.edu. NREL Mini-Workshop: Uncertainty and Risk Assessment in the Design Process for . 1 . to 2. Defining ‘Coast’ and Waves. Lesson Objectives. 1) Know what is meant by term the ‘coast’.. 2) Understand waves. . Success Criteria. )Define ‘coast’.. 2)Draw an accurate annotated wave diagram.. water. and . energy. . Anyone who has watched breakers roll into the shore, or been seasick on a boat, knows very well that waves move. But surprisingly, the water in waves doesn’t travel much at all. A wave is a disturbance in a medium that carries energy without a net movement of particles.. Ocean . waves are formed as wind blows across the surface of the ocean, creating small ripples, which eventually become waves with increasing time and distance. . - Jon . Kabat. -Zinn. Waves are moving . energy. !. Most waves wind-driven. Moving energy along ocean/air interface:. Wind main disturbing force. Boundary between and within fluids with different densities. Energy is moving, not water. orbital motion. energy is transferred via circular motions. water (and gull) return to original position. the wave form moves forward. Motion decreases with depth. At. a depth of ½ of the wavelength, the motion is not significant.. Isaac Ginis . University of Rhode Island . Graduate School of Oceanography. Co-authors: . Xuanyu Chen (CSU) . Tetsu Hara (URI/GSO). Workshop on Physics-Dynamics Coupling. Princeton University, June 2, 2022 . 26. th. , . 2016. Trigger Warning –. We’ll talk about tsunamis today. Wave Steepness . = wave height (H)/ wavelength (L). If the wave steepness exceeds 1/7 – the wave breaks!. So….anytime a wave exceed the 1:7 ratio – it breaks! At shore or at sea….. Chapter 10. Trigger Warning –. We’ll talk about tsunamis today. Roaring 40s. Furious Fifties. Screaming Sixties…. Wave Steepness . = wave height (H)/ wavelength (L). If the wave steepness exceeds 1/7 – the wave breaks!.