PPT-Example Problem Suppose a boat is at rest in the open ocean. The wind has created a steady

The ocean supports a mix of waves but for steady winds of 3040 knots this is the most prevalent wavelength and this is the correct speed for a wave of this wavelength in deep water The . D. Vandemark, H. . Feng. Univ. of New Hampshire/EOS. N. . Reul. , F. . . Ardhuin. , B. . Chapron. . IFREMER/Centre de Brest. within . Aq. Cal/Val team efforts. OSST Meeting 2012. 2. OSST 2012. Overview.  .  . . Waves. When directly generated and affected by local winds, a wind wave system is called a wind sea. After the wind ceases to blow, wind waves are called swells. More generally, a swell consists of wind generated waves that are not significantly affected by the local wind at that time. They have been created elsewhere or a long time ago. Wind waves on the ocean are called ocean waves. These wind waves can also have a negative effect, where on . :. Waves . *Refer to Chapter . 12 . in your Textbook . Learning Goals. : . I can label the anatomy of an ocean wave.. I can differentiate between the various types of waves.. Anatomy of a Wave. :. Crest. The Motion of the Ocean…. Marine Science. Day 1: . Atmospheric Circulation . Objectives. :. What is physical oceanography?. What are the layers of the atmosphere?. Explain how the surface of the Earth is heated.. 6. th. Grade Earth Science. Currents. A current is a large stream of water that flows through the ocean. . Two types of currents. Surface Currents Deep Currents. Waves. What You Will Learn. Identify the parts of a wave. . • Explain how the parts of a wave relate to wave movement. . • Describe how ocean waves form and move. . • Classify types of waves. . Waves. A . Wave. is a . rhythmic. . movement. that carries . energy. through matter or space.. In oceans, waves move through . seawater. Waves. Caused by. :. Wind. Earthquakes. Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun.. Ocean Currents. A . horizontal movement . of water in a well-defined pattern is called a . __________.. current. What are the two major categories of ocean currents?. Surface currents. What are the two major categories of ocean currents?. Pg. 350. Oceans. Since ancient times, Oceans have provided many things:. Food. Trade Routes. Habitats. Exploring the Floor. Bathymetry. : is the study of depth contours on the ocean floor.. Sonar. . Fig 1 Principle of operation Bragg EffectThe Bragg Effect describes the amplification effectof a back-scattered electromagnetic wave havingtwice the wavelength as the ocean wave eg for a 30MHz radar s eachersWaveThe repeating and periodic disturbance that travels through a medium eg water from one location to another locationWave CharacteristicsWave crestThe highest part of a waveWave troughThe low A wave is a disturbance in a medium that carries energy without a net movement of particles.. Ocean . waves are formed as wind blows across the surface of the ocean, creating small ripples, which eventually become waves with increasing time and distance. . Energy is moving, not water. orbital motion. energy is transferred via circular motions. water (and gull) return to original position. the wave form moves forward. Motion decreases with depth. At. a depth of ½ of the wavelength, the motion is not significant.. Isaac Ginis . University of Rhode Island . Graduate School of Oceanography. Co-authors: . Xuanyu Chen (CSU) . Tetsu Hara (URI/GSO). Workshop on Physics-Dynamics Coupling. Princeton University, June 2, 2022 .