Welcome to the DSM Hair Biology Training 2 Dr Remo Campiche Science amp Promotion Skin amp Hair Care Emmanuel Martin Application amp Tech Service Hair Care Presentation 40 minutes ID: 918168
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Slide1
1
lla
Hair care
FROM SCALP TO TIP
Slide2Welcome to the DSM Hair Biology Training 2
Dr.
Remo Campiche
Science & Promotion Skin & Hair Care
Emmanuel Martin
Application & Tech. Service Hair Care Presentation ~ 40 minutesQ&A session Please write your questions in the chat boxPlease put your microphone on mute
Slide33
AGENDA
1.
Introduction to the Hair Structure
2.
Anatomy of the Hair follicle
3. Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation
4.
Scalp & Microbiome
5.
DSM Hair Care products
Slide4Hair generalitiesDid you know?
4
100.000 to 150.000 hairs on your head
~50-100 hairs shed per day
Life cycle of hair ~3-7 years (shorter for men)Re-growth of hair from hair follicle ~20-25xGrowth rate ~1cm / month
Hair Diameter from 60 to 100 µmGrowth of hair: from hair bulb/follicle to the hair shaft from a living to a dead partFrom keratinocyte & melanocyte to colored hairThe study of the hair follicle is mainly addressed by biological sciences while the hair fiber is mainly studied from a physicochemical perspective by cosmetic sciences.https://www.philipkingsley.co.uk
Slide5Introduction to Hair Shaft565-95% of hair is based on Keratin (protein) The rest is water, lipids, pigment
Hair shaft divided into cuticle, cortex (& medulla)Cuticle
:6 to 10 layers of overlapping scales (=> ~5 μm thickness)
a lipid layer of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA, F-layer)Hydrophobic and negatively charged
Cortex (80% of the hair):main bulk (core of the hair) and pigments (colour) of hair Long keratin filaments structured in macro & micro-fibrils
held together by disulphide and hydrogen bonds and CMChttps://www.philipkingsley.co.uk
Slide6Hair Fiber structureHair is made of keratin - a strong protein. This protein is a long chain of amino acids which is made up of four twisted (tetramer) chains running lengthways.
6
Y. Yu et al. / Materials Science and Engineering C 73 (2017) 152–163
Hair, a composite structure
Mix of crystalline and amorphous proteins (matrix and “Cell Membrane Complex”) Cell MembraneComplex
Slide7Hair Fiber structureHair surface in virgin x bleached hair 7
Virgin Caucasian hair
Bleached Caucasian hair
Slide8Hair typesWhat is the difference?8
Caucasian hair
intermediate diameter varies from straight to wavy intermediate thickness of cuticle
Asian Hair
straight
highest diameter (thicker) round shape thickest cuticle layer Resistance to breakage, high strength African Hairthin (small diameter) elliptical shapethinnest cuticle layerbrittle, due to twisted shape of fibers + presence of microcrackslow moisture content
Slide9Hair pigmentationPigmentation of hairs comes from MelaninMelanin: produced in the bulb by the melanocytes(melanogenesis: enzymatic conversion of Tyrosine)Melanin = ~1% of the total composition of hair
2 Types of pigmentsEumelanin
=> dark shades (brown-red and black)Pheomelanin =>
lighter shades (yellow to red)But it can create so many different shades!
From gray hair (less melanin) to white hair (no melanin)Onset gray hair: Caucasian 30-35s, Asian 35-40s and African 40-45s9
Slide1010
AGENDA
1.
Introduction to the Hair Structure
2.
Anatomy of the Hair follicle
3.
Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation
4.
Scalp & Microbiome
5.
DSM Hair Care products
Slide11Anatomy of the hair follicleWhat do you need to know?11
Outer root sheath
Inner root sheath
Connective tissue sheath
Hair shaft
Dermal papilla
Bedogni
&
Paus
2020
Slide1212
Hair Growth
Slide13The hair growth cycleIt consists of three distinct phases: Anagen, catagen & telogen 13
Haslam
&
Paus
2020
growth phaseAnagengrowth phaseCatagenregression phaseTelogen resting phaseAnagen
www.philipkingsley.com
Slide14Signature molecules controlling hair growth14
Dihydro-testosterone
IGF-1
FGF-7
Versican
Alkaline phosphataseKi-67TGFbeta2TUNELPositive regulators of hair growth. Induce or maintain anagen phase.Maintains growth of hair shaft.
Negative regulators of hair growth. Induce catagen phase and apoptosis.
Necessary for body hair, but responsible for male androgenetic alopecia.
Slide15ALPAFLOR
®
EDELWEISS CB
:
Increases hair density
Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation Prolongs anagen phase Increases Versican expression Increases Alkaline phosphatase activityIncreases FGF7 expression in Dermal Papilla Increases IGF1 expression in outer root sheathIncreases Anagen to Telogen (A/T) ratio
DSM Solutions for hair growth
Multitargeted solutions to fight hair loss
15
BeauPlex
® VH:
Increases hair thickness
Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation
Prolongs anagen phase
increases Anagen to Telogen (A/T) ratio
Vitamin C:
Increases hair length
Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation
Increases
Versican
activity
Increases Alkaline phosphatase activity
Up-regulates IGF1
Down-regulates TGF
2
Niacinamide PC:
Increases hair thickness
Promotes increase in
hair diameter
Panthenol:
Increases hair strength
Upregulates KAP 4-12
Biotin:
Promotes hair growth
Promotion in case of Biotin deficiency (oral)
Slide1616
Hair Pigmentation
Slide17Hair pigmentationIt depends on the hair growth cycle17
O’Sullivan et al. 2021
Bedogni
&
Paus
2020Dermal papilla
Bulb
MSCs:
melanocyte
stem
cells
HFSCs:
hair
follicle
stem
cells
HFPU:
hair
follicle
pigmentary
unit
HS:
hair
shaft
IRS:
inner
root
sheath
ORS:
outer
root
sheath
CTS:
connective
tissue
sheath
Pigmentary
unit
Slide18Pigmented vs grey vs white hair18
Peters et al. 2013
O’Sullivan et al. 2021
HFPU:
hair
follicle pigmentary unit.ORS: outer root
sheathMSCs:
melanocyte
stem
cells
hm:
hair
matrix
pu
:
pigmentary
unit
m:
melanocyte
ors
:
outer
root
sheath
irs
:
inner
root
sheath
hs
:
hair
shaft
dp
: dermal
papilla
em
:
ectopic
melanocyte
rm
:
rounded
melanocyte
Slide19Signature molecules controlling hair pigmentation19
Ki-67
Nklbeteb
TRP2
TYR
MITFpmel17c-kitTUNELReactive oxygen species (ROS)Melanogenesis markers indicative for melanotic melanocytes.Marker for early, migrating melanocytes.Negative regulator of hair growth. Induces catagen phase.Negative impact on hair follicle melanocytes.
Positive indicator of melanocyte proliferation.
Marker for melanocytes.
Slide20DSM Solutions for anti-greying
Hair pigmentation
20
ROS neutralization
Increase in differentiating
melanocytes in the pigmentary unitIncrease in gene expression (TYR, TYRP1, Pmel17 & Melanin content
Proliferation & migration of melanocytes in ORS
ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB
BeauPlex
® VH
Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Slide2121
AGENDA
1.
Introduction to the Hair Structure
2.
Anatomy of the Hair follicle
3.
Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation
4.
Scalp & Microbiome
5.
DSM Hair Care products
Slide22Scalp & MicrobiomeScalp & skin have the same “structure”: epidermis, dermis and hypodermisBUT scalp (vs skin of face) has - more hair follicles, - lipid and sweat glands, - lower barrier function (higher TEWL)
22
Key indicators
:
TEWLhydration
sebum regulation & flaking G. Turner, Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, 34, 298–306
Slide23Scalp & MicrobiomeSpecificity of Scalp Microbiota: mainly based on Cutibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus Epidermidis (bacterial core) and Malassezia Restricta & Globosa (fungi core)Dandruff scalp & Seborrheic Dermatitis: variations in species and specific species ratio
Avoid imbalance of Microbiota
23
Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6(1):24877
Slide24DSM Solutions for Scalp Care
24
Sebum reduction & less oily scalp
Scalp hydration and moisturization
Reduction of scalp flaking
Anti-oxidant & UV protection
Improved scalp barrier properties Reduction of TEWL
Support Microbiota in B-vitamins supply
PENTAVITIN®
Vitamin C
Vitamin E
Vitamin B3
Vitamin B5
Vitamin B6
D-Biotin
Slide2525
AGENDA
1.
Introduction to the Hair Structure
2.
Anatomy of the Hair follicle
3.
Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation
4.
Scalp & Microbiome
5.
DSM Hair Care products
Slide26DSM Hair Care ProductsThe study of the hair follicle is mainly addressed by biological sciences while the hair fiber is mainly studied from a physicochemical perspective by cosmetic sciences.
At a glance
26
ALPAFLOR
®
EDELWEISS CB, ALP-SEBUM CBVitaminsBeauPlex VHVit. B3, B5, B6, BiotinVit. C & Vit. E
Bioactives
PENTAVITIN
PHYTALURONATE PF, SETAKOL PF, COLHIBIN PF
STIMU-TEX AS, Life’s GLA 10 “n”-6 oil,
ARGAN OIL,
Phytantriol
TILAMAR®
Quat
640
TILAMAR®
Quat
2240
TILAMAR®
Fix
A1000
TILAMAR®
Boost
150
TILAMAR®
PDO
with NØØVISTA
TM
PARSOL SLX
PARSOL MCX
Slide27DSM Solutions for Hair Volume
27
Increase in hair density
and hair thickness
Unique volume
polymer designStylingTilamar® Boost 150Tilamar® Fix
A1000BeauPlex® VHALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB
Vitamin B3
Slide28“Take-Away” messagesFrom hair bulb/follicle to the hair shaft: from a living to a dead partHair, a
composite structure: Mix of crystalline and amorphous proteins (matrix and “CMC”)Hair diversity: 3 Hair types (Caucasian, Asian & African) & 2 Pigments (Eumelanin & Pheomelanin)
Hair follicle: Consists of the hair shaft which sits in the hair sheath. Stem cells are in the bulge area. They migrate to the hair bulb where they become mature cells making the hair shaft. The dermal papilla at the root of the hair releases many cytokines and growth factors that control hair growth and pigmentation.
Hair growth: Hair has a growth cycle with three phases. Hair grows in anagen phase (growth phase). To counteract hair loss,
one must prolong anagen phase.Hair Pigmentation: pigmentation is strictly coupled to growth phase. Hair melanocytes make melanin. Grey hair can be stimulated to re-pigment. White hair is forever white..Healthy Scalp for nice Hairs
: complex interconnections between TEWL, Sebum & flaking regulation and a balanced Microbiota DSM Solutions for Scalp & Hair Care to be presented on June 3rd, 202128
Slide29References
29
Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Human Hair and the Impact of Cosmetic Procedures: A Review on Cleansing and Shape-Modulating Cosmetics, Cosmetics
2016
, 3, 26Franbourg
et al, Current research on ethnic hair, J Am Acad Dermatol, June 2003Y. Yu et al., Materials Science and Engineering C 73 (2017) 152–163The Science of Hair care, 2nd Edition, Bouillon & Wilkinson, 2008Bedogni & Paus, Hair(y) Matters in Melanoma Biology, Trends Mol Med, 2020, 26(5):441Haslam & Paus, The Hair Follicle as an Interdisciplinary Model for Biomedichal Research: An Eclectic Literature Synthesis, BioEssays 2020, 42, 2000053O’Sullivan et al. The biology of human hair greying, Biol Rev Camb Philos Soc 2021, 96(1):107Peters et al. Profiling mRNA of the Graying Human Hair Follicle Constitutes a Promising State-of-the-Art Tool to Assess Its Aging: An Exemplary Report, J Invest Dermatol 2013, 133:1150G. Turner, Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, 34, 298–306Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6(1):24877
Slide30Slide31Scalp & MicrobiomeAvoid imbalance of Microbiota31
Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6 (1):24877