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1 lla Hair care FROM SCALP TO TIP 1 lla Hair care FROM SCALP TO TIP

1 lla Hair care FROM SCALP TO TIP - PowerPoint Presentation

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1 lla Hair care FROM SCALP TO TIP - PPT Presentation

Welcome to the DSM Hair Biology Training 2 Dr Remo Campiche Science amp Promotion Skin amp Hair Care Emmanuel Martin Application amp Tech Service Hair Care Presentation 40 minutes ID: 918168

amp hair scalp growth hair amp growth scalp follicle care dsm increases sheath phase vitamin pigmentation root anagen shaft

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Presentation Transcript

Slide1

1

lla

Hair care

FROM SCALP TO TIP

Slide2

Welcome to the DSM Hair Biology Training 2

Dr.

Remo Campiche

Science & Promotion Skin & Hair Care

Emmanuel Martin

Application & Tech. Service Hair Care Presentation ~ 40 minutesQ&A session Please write your questions in the chat boxPlease put your microphone on mute

Slide3

3

AGENDA

1.

Introduction to the Hair Structure

2.

Anatomy of the Hair follicle

3. Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation

4.

Scalp & Microbiome

5.

DSM Hair Care products

Slide4

Hair generalitiesDid you know?

4

100.000 to 150.000 hairs on your head

~50-100 hairs shed per day

Life cycle of hair ~3-7 years (shorter for men)Re-growth of hair from hair follicle ~20-25xGrowth rate ~1cm / month

Hair Diameter from 60 to 100 µmGrowth of hair: from hair bulb/follicle to the hair shaft from a living to a dead partFrom keratinocyte & melanocyte to colored hairThe study of the hair follicle is mainly addressed by biological sciences while the hair fiber is mainly studied from a physicochemical perspective by cosmetic sciences.https://www.philipkingsley.co.uk

Slide5

Introduction to Hair Shaft565-95% of hair is based on Keratin (protein) The rest is water, lipids, pigment

Hair shaft divided into cuticle, cortex (& medulla)Cuticle

:6 to 10 layers of overlapping scales (=> ~5 μm thickness)

a lipid layer of 18-methyl eicosanoic acid (18-MEA, F-layer)Hydrophobic and negatively charged

Cortex (80% of the hair):main bulk (core of the hair) and pigments (colour) of hair Long keratin filaments structured in macro & micro-fibrils

held together by disulphide and hydrogen bonds and CMChttps://www.philipkingsley.co.uk

Slide6

Hair Fiber structureHair is made of keratin - a strong protein. This protein is a long chain of amino acids which is made up of four twisted (tetramer) chains running lengthways.

6

Y. Yu et al. / Materials Science and Engineering C 73 (2017) 152–163

Hair, a composite structure

Mix of crystalline and amorphous proteins (matrix and “Cell Membrane Complex”) Cell MembraneComplex

Slide7

Hair Fiber structureHair surface in virgin x bleached hair 7

Virgin Caucasian hair

Bleached Caucasian hair

Slide8

Hair typesWhat is the difference?8

Caucasian hair

intermediate diameter varies from straight to wavy intermediate thickness of cuticle

Asian Hair

straight

highest diameter (thicker) round shape thickest cuticle layer Resistance to breakage, high strength African Hairthin (small diameter) elliptical shapethinnest cuticle layerbrittle, due to twisted shape of fibers + presence of microcrackslow moisture content

Slide9

Hair pigmentationPigmentation of hairs comes from MelaninMelanin: produced in the bulb by the melanocytes(melanogenesis: enzymatic conversion of Tyrosine)Melanin = ~1% of the total composition of hair

2 Types of pigmentsEumelanin

=> dark shades (brown-red and black)Pheomelanin =>

lighter shades (yellow to red)But it can create so many different shades!

From gray hair (less melanin) to white hair (no melanin)Onset gray hair: Caucasian 30-35s, Asian 35-40s and African 40-45s9

Slide10

10

AGENDA

1.

Introduction to the Hair Structure

2.

Anatomy of the Hair follicle

3.

Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation

4.

Scalp & Microbiome

5.

DSM Hair Care products

Slide11

Anatomy of the hair follicleWhat do you need to know?11

Outer root sheath

Inner root sheath

Connective tissue sheath

Hair shaft

Dermal papilla

Bedogni

&

Paus

2020

Slide12

12

Hair Growth

Slide13

The hair growth cycleIt consists of three distinct phases: Anagen, catagen & telogen 13

Haslam

&

Paus

2020

growth phaseAnagengrowth phaseCatagenregression phaseTelogen resting phaseAnagen

www.philipkingsley.com

Slide14

Signature molecules controlling hair growth14

Dihydro-testosterone

IGF-1

FGF-7

Versican

Alkaline phosphataseKi-67TGFbeta2TUNELPositive regulators of hair growth. Induce or maintain anagen phase.Maintains growth of hair shaft.

Negative regulators of hair growth. Induce catagen phase and apoptosis.

Necessary for body hair, but responsible for male androgenetic alopecia.

Slide15

ALPAFLOR

®

EDELWEISS CB

:

Increases hair density

Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation Prolongs anagen phase Increases Versican expression Increases Alkaline phosphatase activityIncreases FGF7 expression in Dermal Papilla Increases IGF1 expression in outer root sheathIncreases Anagen to Telogen (A/T) ratio

DSM Solutions for hair growth

Multitargeted solutions to fight hair loss

15

BeauPlex

® VH:

Increases hair thickness

Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation

Prolongs anagen phase

increases Anagen to Telogen (A/T) ratio

Vitamin C:

Increases hair length

Promotes keratinocytes Ki-67+ proliferation

Increases

Versican

activity

Increases Alkaline phosphatase activity

Up-regulates IGF1

Down-regulates TGF

2

Niacinamide PC:

Increases hair thickness

Promotes increase in

hair diameter

Panthenol:

Increases hair strength

Upregulates KAP 4-12

Biotin:

Promotes hair growth

Promotion in case of Biotin deficiency (oral)

Slide16

16

Hair Pigmentation

Slide17

Hair pigmentationIt depends on the hair growth cycle17

O’Sullivan et al. 2021

Bedogni

&

Paus

2020Dermal papilla

Bulb

MSCs:

melanocyte

stem

cells

HFSCs:

hair

follicle

stem

cells

HFPU:

hair

follicle

pigmentary

unit

HS:

hair

shaft

IRS:

inner

root

sheath

ORS:

outer

root

sheath

CTS:

connective

tissue

sheath

Pigmentary

unit

Slide18

Pigmented vs grey vs white hair18

Peters et al. 2013

O’Sullivan et al. 2021

HFPU:

hair

follicle pigmentary unit.ORS: outer root

sheathMSCs:

melanocyte

stem

cells

hm:

hair

matrix

pu

:

pigmentary

unit

m:

melanocyte

ors

:

outer

root

sheath

irs

:

inner

root

sheath

hs

:

hair

shaft

dp

: dermal

papilla

em

:

ectopic

melanocyte

rm

:

rounded

melanocyte

Slide19

Signature molecules controlling hair pigmentation19

Ki-67

Nklbeteb

TRP2

TYR

MITFpmel17c-kitTUNELReactive oxygen species (ROS)Melanogenesis markers indicative for melanotic melanocytes.Marker for early, migrating melanocytes.Negative regulator of hair growth. Induces catagen phase.Negative impact on hair follicle melanocytes.

Positive indicator of melanocyte proliferation.

Marker for melanocytes.

Slide20

DSM Solutions for anti-greying

Hair pigmentation

20

ROS neutralization

Increase in differentiating

melanocytes in the pigmentary unitIncrease in gene expression (TYR, TYRP1, Pmel17 & Melanin content

Proliferation & migration of melanocytes in ORS

ALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB

BeauPlex

® VH

Vitamin C

Vitamin E

Slide21

21

AGENDA

1.

Introduction to the Hair Structure

2.

Anatomy of the Hair follicle

3.

Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation

4.

Scalp & Microbiome

5.

DSM Hair Care products

Slide22

Scalp & MicrobiomeScalp & skin have the same “structure”: epidermis, dermis and hypodermisBUT scalp (vs skin of face) has - more hair follicles, - lipid and sweat glands, - lower barrier function (higher TEWL)

22

Key indicators

:

TEWLhydration

sebum regulation & flaking G. Turner, Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, 34, 298–306

Slide23

Scalp & MicrobiomeSpecificity of Scalp Microbiota: mainly based on Cutibacterium Acnes, Staphylococcus Epidermidis (bacterial core) and Malassezia Restricta & Globosa (fungi core)Dandruff scalp & Seborrheic Dermatitis: variations in species and specific species ratio

Avoid imbalance of Microbiota

23

Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6(1):24877

Slide24

DSM Solutions for Scalp Care

24

Sebum reduction & less oily scalp

Scalp hydration and moisturization

Reduction of scalp flaking

Anti-oxidant & UV protection

Improved scalp barrier properties Reduction of TEWL

Support Microbiota in B-vitamins supply

PENTAVITIN®

Vitamin C

Vitamin E

Vitamin B3

Vitamin B5

Vitamin B6

D-Biotin

Slide25

25

AGENDA

1.

Introduction to the Hair Structure

2.

Anatomy of the Hair follicle

3.

Hair Growth & Hair Pigmentation

4.

Scalp & Microbiome

5.

DSM Hair Care products

Slide26

DSM Hair Care ProductsThe study of the hair follicle is mainly addressed by biological sciences while the hair fiber is mainly studied from a physicochemical perspective by cosmetic sciences.

At a glance

26

ALPAFLOR

®

EDELWEISS CB, ALP-SEBUM CBVitaminsBeauPlex VHVit. B3, B5, B6, BiotinVit. C & Vit. E

Bioactives

PENTAVITIN

PHYTALURONATE PF, SETAKOL PF, COLHIBIN PF

STIMU-TEX AS, Life’s GLA 10 “n”-6 oil,

ARGAN OIL,

Phytantriol

TILAMAR®

Quat

640

TILAMAR®

Quat

2240

TILAMAR®

Fix

A1000

TILAMAR®

Boost

150

TILAMAR®

PDO

with NØØVISTA

TM

PARSOL SLX

PARSOL MCX

Slide27

DSM Solutions for Hair Volume

27

Increase in hair density

and hair thickness

Unique volume

polymer designStylingTilamar® Boost 150Tilamar® Fix

A1000BeauPlex® VHALPAFLOR® EDELWEISS CB

Vitamin B3

Slide28

“Take-Away” messagesFrom hair bulb/follicle to the hair shaft: from a living to a dead partHair, a

composite structure: Mix of crystalline and amorphous proteins (matrix and “CMC”)Hair diversity: 3 Hair types (Caucasian, Asian & African) & 2 Pigments (Eumelanin & Pheomelanin)

Hair follicle: Consists of the hair shaft which sits in the hair sheath. Stem cells are in the bulge area. They migrate to the hair bulb where they become mature cells making the hair shaft. The dermal papilla at the root of the hair releases many cytokines and growth factors that control hair growth and pigmentation.

Hair growth: Hair has a growth cycle with three phases. Hair grows in anagen phase (growth phase). To counteract hair loss,

one must prolong anagen phase.Hair Pigmentation: pigmentation is strictly coupled to growth phase. Hair melanocytes make melanin. Grey hair can be stimulated to re-pigment. White hair is forever white..Healthy Scalp for nice Hairs

: complex interconnections between TEWL, Sebum & flaking regulation and a balanced Microbiota DSM Solutions for Scalp & Hair Care to be presented on June 3rd, 202128

Slide29

References

29

Artur Cavaco-Paulo, Human Hair and the Impact of Cosmetic Procedures: A Review on Cleansing and Shape-Modulating Cosmetics, Cosmetics

2016

, 3, 26Franbourg

et al, Current research on ethnic hair, J Am Acad Dermatol, June 2003Y. Yu et al., Materials Science and Engineering C 73 (2017) 152–163The Science of Hair care, 2nd Edition, Bouillon & Wilkinson, 2008Bedogni & Paus, Hair(y) Matters in Melanoma Biology, Trends Mol Med, 2020, 26(5):441Haslam & Paus, The Hair Follicle as an Interdisciplinary Model for Biomedichal Research: An Eclectic Literature Synthesis, BioEssays 2020, 42, 2000053O’Sullivan et al. The biology of human hair greying, Biol Rev Camb Philos Soc 2021, 96(1):107Peters et al. Profiling mRNA of the Graying Human Hair Follicle Constitutes a Promising State-of-the-Art Tool to Assess Its Aging: An Exemplary Report, J Invest Dermatol 2013, 133:1150G. Turner, Stratum corneum dysfunction in dandruff, International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2012, 34, 298–306Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6(1):24877

Slide30

Slide31

Scalp & MicrobiomeAvoid imbalance of Microbiota31

Xu, May 2016, Dandruff is associated with the conjoined interactions between host and microorganisms, Scientific Reports 6 (1):24877